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@~36k miles next up on the list of things to do is the slide pins. Any issues getting the wheels off the front hubs? Mine look to be pretty 'tight' to the hubs. In addition the truck lives in the Keys for the last 4 winters for 5 - 6 months. I tried to hose the truck and wheels off periodically to help.
What size floor jack and where best to position jack? Torque on lug nuts when reassembling?
I've never had one so tight a good kick wouldn't get it off. A 2-1/2 ton floor jack under anything solid looking at the end of the axle works fine. 165 ft-lbs torque for the lug nuts. Do not lubricate the threads, only a drop of oil between the nut and the flange that clamps against the wheel.
I use a light coating of anti seize on the wheel mounting surface to make it easy to remove the wheels from the hub. Here in north east Nevada we have salt on the roads during the winter months which will make it difficult to remove the wheels if this is not done. I rotate the fronts side to side every 5-6k so they are not on there much more than 8-10 months at a time. I need to pull the rears off as it's been about a year since they've been off.
From years past living in the WNY and the salty winters learned to put a light coat of anti seize on after the first time the wheels didn't want to cooperate being stuck to the hub. Since then I always put a light coat on when removing wheels and never since have had to wrestle with a wheel trying to remove it because it was stuck on the hub.
Just don't get any on the threads! Always torque lugs dry. The only oil they should see is the nuts with the loose washers on them, those need some lube to spin, but never on the threads.
Since my '88' truck on every truck I always put anti seize on the theads also. Always hand tighten using a torque wrenched to specs and personally never had an issue. Every truck well over 200k miles and tires rotated every 10k miles or so.
Since my '88' truck on every truck I always put anti seize on the theads also. Always hand tighten using a torque wrenched to specs and personally never had an issue. Every truck well over 200k miles and tires rotated every 10k miles or so.
Did you reduce torque 25% as stated by Anti Seize technology, or just applied the book value? If the latter, don't be surprise when they snap. 165 ftlbs is over 200 applied ftlbs when using an anti seize.
Did you reduce torque 25% as stated by Anti Seize technology, or just applied the book value? If the latter, don't be surprise when they snap. 165 ftlbs is over 200 applied ftlbs when using an anti seize.
No, no reduction. I will be surprised seeing that now with over 35 years and well over 1,300,000 miles and umpteen tire rotations and changes on my trucks.
Don't forget the rear calipers, we are four wheel disc now.
Originally Posted by 406f150
^ Yep I found one fully seized on the back when I did tires on my truck.
Good point, will definitely be doing the back ones as well. I put a infrared temp gun on the brakes all the way around including the tandems on the trailer on the way home from Florida. No anomalies that I detected.
Wheel studs are mandated to be minimum grade 10. After living in Michigan I would never not use anti-seize on the threads in a state that loves salting the roads. This is one of those sky is falling things.
I have lubed up the threads on all studs that were more than a few year old including trailers especially if the nuts were stubborn coming off. Been doing it that way for over 50 years. These studs look pretty well locked up so we will see how it goes. Will be cleaning up/lubing the wheel mating surface and the axle surface.
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