How does this mechanic come up with you need new Injectors and Injection Pump? Going by the mileage on the Odometer?
Blowing black smoke out the Tail Pipe?
Where does he come up with an electric Injection Pump?
These trucks (6.9/7/3 IDI) use a mechanical IP.


When I bought the 86 in 2014, it had 192K miles. Paid $1800, and was rode hard in it`s life.
Bought it in Sacramento and didn`t know if it would make the 153 miles back to Santa Cruz.
Tires had lots of tread like the CL posting said, but were dry rotted, so new set of tires.
Wondered around on the road, took it to a shop to see what`s up with that. new Rotors, Calipers,
Hoses, Wheel bearings and set the toe.

Bought it for our move from Santa Cruz, Ca. to Nevada. That means from sea level to climbing
over 8K FT and then down into NV. Made 22 trips.
One trip get to NV, Bake peddle went to the floor. Replaced Booster and MC.
If you notice wet/rusty under the MC on the Booster, chances are it is leaking Brake Fluid. Most
likely it is going into the Booster. If you are adding fluid to the reservoir. Need to replace both.

Why did the mechanic think you need all new Brake Lines? All rusted out? You live in the rust belt?

Battery cables are easy. I had NAPA make me new cables, crimped on ring terminals on the Battery,
and a ring terminal for the end on the engine block.
I use the battery clamps that have the bolt to hold down the ring terminal.
Take them off, so you know the length etc...

Glow plugs, only use Motorcraft ZD-9 or new # ZD-29 I think it is. Do not buy off E-Bay or Amazon,
lots of fake plugs. Do not use plugs because they are cheap and got a good deal on them.
They are short lived, ends can swell and a PITA to get out or tips breaking off.
Lots of stuff on E-Bay is way over priced, gold plated etc... do a lot of searching and reading.


I understand the rusted rear tank, you can run off the front tank only. Keep in mind, on the end of the
fuel pick up is a thing called the Shower head, has a screen on the suction side and sits on the bottom
of the tank. They are known to break off on these older trucks. get to 1/4 tank and start sucking air.
I replaced the rear with a 38 gallon tank, replaced both Senders and Shower heads. Easy DIY job, just
takes a bit of time.

The Fuel Selector Valve (FSV) that switches between tanks can be a problem. Replaced mine, later got
stuck pulling fuel from the rear and returning to the front, which eventually leaked from over filled.
Now run off the rear, supply and return.
Why does the mechanic think you need all new Fuel Lines? They should be plastic, up to the FSV and a
short ways past it then rubber up to the Water separator, then Rubber down to a steel line under the engine
to the Curly Q hose at the Lift Pump. Then steel line up to the Fuel Filter on the engine.
Take a look under the truck and see what ya got.

Mechanic offered to buy it, maybe he wanted to scare you into selling it.

The E4OD Trans, know nothing about them, have a gear box.

What part of the country are you in, maybe someone close buy to walk you/help you through things.


Charlie

 

If the rear tank is crusty it's a good bet that the brake lines are toast as well. All you need is a season or two in an area where liquid deicer is deployed and that can do in many key parts. Brakes, fuel system, exhaust...just name a few. If I lived in an area where they use that stuff I'd move.

My motto is, if it works, don't fix it. When it comes to brakes, tires, fuel system or exhaust I do not cut corners. Fix the critical safety items

 

its an electric conversion pump, the mechanic recommended it and I’ve seen on this forum a few times where people have mentioned the swap. I have the truck back and so far everything is great. A couple seals and light work that needed to be done he did for free. I went up there and brought him a case of beer when I paid the rest of what was owed and he still had the engine apart and was showing me a bit of what he was doing. I don’t believe he was taking advantage of me but as a man with a business I understand that if the work needs to be done at some point you might as well do it while everything is gutted than wait later. Could’ve probably spent 3k now and 6 months later spend another 3-4K on whatever else needed done. Figure I came out alright, now just going to be bringing the body back to life starting with the molding and a new hood

 

He's right. Day one modification.
It even was back a decade ago when you could still buy decent, long lasting mechanical lift pumps. Now, only those who like to be stranded roadside with their Chinese pumps will die on that hill.

"Facet Dura-Lift fuel pumps are made in the USA. Specifically, they are designed and built by Automotive Components, formerly Facet Enterprises, in the original Bendix Brake Company plant."