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I don't like how that blue spring is digging into the cylinder boot. I would prefer to see the pink spring be against the adjuster cable eye instead of the blue one. See if you can adjust the left plunger to be more straight. Sometimes the shoes need to be bumped to sit in the saddle correctly and straighten the plungers. Also, I believe the lower spring needs to go to the big hole in the shoe to the right of where it is, and I don't think the adjuster mechanism is sitting correctly, either (which could be just a function of incorrect spring placement). Here's a typical diagram. The more I look at this, I'm wondering if your red and blue springs need to be swapped?
Many thanks for that picture! I copied what I found when I opened them up, but that doesn't mean it was correct. I see how moving the bottom spring will put the adjuster lever in a better position. I'll also swap the pink and blue springs to see if the pink one will clear the cylinder.
What I meant was I am wondering if the blue spring needs to be below at the adjuster and the red spring up in it's place. I'm not sure what your lengths and shapes are, but from the pictures, the fat one goes down and the two similar sized springs are at the top.
I have a 67 F100, and installed my springs in accordance with the 1967 Ford truck service manual, the difference being, not installing the horizontal spring marked with the red arrow. I couldn't find a kit that had this spring and was told by others is could be omitted. The drawing from the manual is the opposite side to your photo and mine.
FWIW my brakes, as per the photo, seem to be operating fine and the shoes are fully retracting.
That makes more sense...I set the springs like the first picture but that meant the hardware kits weren't right. There would need to be two of the long springs and the red one didn't need to be used. After seeing your picture I can tell that the hardware kits are correct and now have them all in place. I'm getting pretty good at removing and installing the springs
The rear cylinder pin looks crooked but I think it will all fall into place once I get the drums back from the machine shop. Bleed it and drive it and it should all be fine.
Almost funny how fast the other side went together...gotta wait for the drums so I once again thank everyone for their help. Right now the sun is out and I think it's beer 30 so I'm gonna grab a guitar and sit outside
That looks much better. Nice. I would still feel better if you gave it a little fist bump as seen in my pic, here. It may just be the angles, but from what I see at the blue arrows, things don't appear to be lined up just right and the shoe isn't in the saddle correctly. Most times a little bump is all they need to snap and settle in.
That makes more sense...I set the springs like the first picture but that meant the hardware kits weren't right. There would need to be two of the long springs and the red one didn't need to be used. After seeing your picture I can tell that the hardware kits are correct and now have them all in place. I'm getting pretty good at removing and installing the springs
The rear cylinder pin looks crooked but I think it will all fall into place once I get the drums back from the machine shop. Bleed it and drive it and it should all be fine.
did you want this spring? do you only need one?
I had to remove the contents of my 67 f100 9 inch axles brakes on one side because the return springs failed and it applied the brake on my trailer, but i never touched the other side. I think the guts of the side i removed are in a coffee can with other old non-sure-from-what i found in my shed my grandpa had saved
I at least should have one spring
i also have a 67-69 or something Dana 60 semi float rear end that i presume i have the full contents under the brake drum
EDIT: you mean a front drum, my bad, i dont have anything for that likely, but i could look for that coffee can. the parts may have been the front brakes from the once-truck
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