Brrr no heat
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New User
Joined: Dec 2003
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Brrr no heat
Hi...new to the board, what a great resource for my 91 Exploder XLT. For about 2+yrs the coolant overflow/fill tank would always be empty. No leakage from the tank. The truck always ran at the right temp, AC in the summer and heat in the winter. My mechanic said I may have a small hole in the upper portion of the rad, causing a coolant leak. Now that the wx is cold I have virtually no heat, the temp indicator barely moves off the cold pin. I would think I'd still get heat once the thermo opens, maybe the blend door issue? Maybe the thermo? Maybe the rad? Where do I begin? Thanks!!
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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I had a car once that the overflow tank was always empty after driving. It turned out to be a blown head gasket. It will pressurize the coolant system and blow the coolant into the tank until the tank overflowed. As the engine cools, it draws the fluid back into the radiator leaving the tank empty. I would start there first. Look into the radiator and see if you can see fluid. It should near the top. You may have no heat because you have no fluid.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 886
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From: Cincinnati
My 92 had a rear head gasket leak
Just a little external leak. I put in those little aluminum flakes and it has never leaked again. They can also start to leak from the weap hole on the pump. Get a radiator! They are only about $200. Mine started leaking from multiple locations. Thermostats are only $3.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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Sounds like its your t-stat, if the trucks always cold thats what it is its stuck open....Its real ez to replace just get a 1/4in drive, with a 10mm flexable and regular head, also get a 1.5 extension, that way you wont have to remove the sepentine belt, here i posted a post a while ago about replacing the t-stat with out taking anything off, but the throtle body, just one side remove and move it out, i placed a post a while ago i cant find it at this time i will keep looking and get back to you, but dont start the job with out a 1/4in drive, you wont beable to get the bolt out on the passenger side, there are three bolts
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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heres the link on the esayest way i found to do this job https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...52B%25252Bcold
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 140
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sorry I should have read better
It sounds like a T-stat.
I changed mine in a 1/2 hours time. 2 bolts, silicone blue sealant and new parts. You'll need about 3/4 gallon of new fluid once you open the housing and have finished the repair. Theres no need to drain the radiator. Carefully file the mating surface of the housing flat again and be sure to clean the surfaces with a razor. Using your finger tips smear a thin layer of silicone on the paper gasket and reasemble the parts. Nothing to it. Becareful not over tighten the bolts. It's impossible to use a torque wrench there so make it snug and run the engine to full temp. If it leaks a little the tighten a bit more until it stops. re-check the next day after driving to be sure it is sealed.
It sounds like a T-stat.
I changed mine in a 1/2 hours time. 2 bolts, silicone blue sealant and new parts. You'll need about 3/4 gallon of new fluid once you open the housing and have finished the repair. Theres no need to drain the radiator. Carefully file the mating surface of the housing flat again and be sure to clean the surfaces with a razor. Using your finger tips smear a thin layer of silicone on the paper gasket and reasemble the parts. Nothing to it. Becareful not over tighten the bolts. It's impossible to use a torque wrench there so make it snug and run the engine to full temp. If it leaks a little the tighten a bit more until it stops. re-check the next day after driving to be sure it is sealed.
Last edited by drcoffee; Dec 5, 2003 at 07:25 PM.
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