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I have a 1988 F150. I just replaced the EGR and EGR tube. Now I have a check engine light.
KOER I have code 44 then 31.
The code 44 has been there for a very long time but the 31 is new.
The EGR, and EGR tube is new. And the exhaust valve regulator solenoid was replaced with a standard motor products one about a year ago. Same with the EVP sensor. I was having a code 34 then (not now) which the EVP fixed that. I have the original motor craft solenoid still since that was not bad.
Im thinking neither sensor is likely to be bad but know that there’s still a possibility. But I wanted to ask where should I start the diagnostic process? I want the check engine light off. I’m not sure anything about the code 44 though, which isn’t what is triggering the light because that has been there for a very long time, although it is the first code, 31 is the second code to show up.
As you probably already know, you are supposed to start with KOEO codes and repair those faults before moving on to KOER so are you also getting those codes KOEO? What do you mean by that code being there a long time? Does that mean you clear the memory and it returns or are you chasing a fault that has long since been repaired?
I have to pull KOEO codes again. But 44 has been in the computer a long time. I haven’t unplugged the battery in awhile, but it has been there and it does come back when the battery gets unplugged. From the last time I pulled KOEO codes (not last night but the one before). At that time it showed 32 not 31 for KOER. Yesterday it changed to 31.
KOEO:
“O” and “C” code for 31
I will test the sensor later today or sometime tomorrow then. I’ll try to see if I need to adjust it to.
Will my exhaust leak from the bad passenger exhaust manifold cause a code 44? Cause I figure the oxygen it sends into the exhaust is getting right back out where the manifold isn’t sealed. Cause it checks the o2 sensor for that right?
I was gonna go test the EVP sensor in a bit.
Code 44 happens when the AIR valve opens and the computer doesn't see the o2 sensor report lean from the additional fresh air hitting the O2 sensor. A leaking exhaust manifold could cause this.
I tested the EVP
The harness gives 4.9v. So that’s good
The sensor has 3,960 ohms between the middle and right pin
And 400 ohms between the left and middle pin.
The sensor and power passes. Now what?
I removed and reinstalled the EVP sensor, thinking maybe the O-Ring didn’t seat right. Then disconnected the battery for 5 minutes. It changed from a code 31 to a code 32 KOEO.
I just applied vacuum with a hose I attached to the EGR and had the middle wire of the EVP back probed, the signal did not change from 0.56 when I pushed the pin on the sensor all the way in.
So that means my new sensor is dead right?
Ok I figured out the problem. Now how to fix it? The EGR is a Dorman one from rockauto. And the EVP is a Napa one. It sits at 0.00v if I apply the slightest amount of vacuum it goes up to 0.02 and goes up from there. So the pin and diaphragm are not touching. How do I make them touch? And the right amount.
Price wise I see why you chose the Dorman part but I stay away from their garbage parts. I’m inclined to think that the valve is made wrong and not the sensor.