When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Is there a fix to how this cluster lights up? Like the right side has no power? All new bulbs. Sockets look good. Bent the tabs out to ensure contact….. not that it tremendously matters as I just installed a gauge cluster but would be nice if it lit up……
Clean the PC where the sockets make contact.
Test each & every bulb, even if they are new.
Clean the contacts on the sockets, both the ones that contact the PC & the ones inside the socket that contact the bulb.
Then test each & every socket with the bulb installed. Power to the contacts, make sure the bulb lights.
Make sure that the body of the cluster is not crumbling around where the sockets fit in.
If it is crumbling, the contacts on the sockets won't make good contact with the PC. Cure is to replace the cluster body.
I test the bulbs with a couple of wires & a battery charger.
The instrument cluster on these trucks is the single worst thing about the whole truck IMO. Seems to be the only part made with pringles potato chip plastic. In the 18 yrs Ive had my truck, I went through three of them in the first 10 years (all used of course)- each one eventually just turning into dust. Eventually just bit the bullet and built a custom cluster. Took a little while- saving up to buy each gauge when finances allowed... but the final result is far more accurate and reliable. Been problem-free since.
The instrument cluster on these trucks is the single worst thing about the whole truck IMO. Seems to be the only part made with pringles potato chip plastic. In the 18 yrs Ive had my truck, I went through three of them in the first 10 years (all used of course)- each one eventually just turning into dust. Eventually just bit the bullet and built a custom cluster. Took a little while- saving up to buy each gauge when finances allowed... but the final result is far more accurate and reliable. Been problem-free since.
I have everything to build that. Would just need speedo!
Mine's an off-the-shelf AutoMeter speedo. As memory serves I needed an aftermarket speedometer cable to run from the speedo to the trans (C6). I went with Lokar.
One side note...when I said everything is more accurate now, the one exception to that actually is the speedometer- as it reads approx 10-15mph too slow from actual speed (going off of GPS and those speed-reading radar signs on the side of the road). I'm sure swapping out the speedo gear drive at the trans with a different tooth count gear would make it more accurate, but I've just never bothered with it since I'm usually just going with the flow of traffic anyway.
Last edited by hickabilly; Apr 20, 2025 at 12:53 PM.
Mine's an off-the-shelf AutoMeter speedo. As memory serves I needed an aftermarket speedometer cable to run from the speedo to the trans (C6). I went with Lokar.
One side note...when I said everything is more accurate now, the one exception to that actually is the speedometer- as it reads approx 10-15mph too slow from actual speed (going off of GPS and those speed-reading radar signs on the side of the road). I'm sure swapping out the speedo gear drive at the trans with a different tooth count gear would make it more accurate, but I've just never bothered with it since I'm usually just going with the flow of traffic anyway.
I figured we would change that with rear gear change and 35” tires. Just haven’t gotten to that part yet.
Mine's an off-the-shelf AutoMeter speedo. As memory serves I needed an aftermarket speedometer cable to run from the speedo to the trans (C6). I went with Lokar.
One side note...when I said everything is more accurate now, the one exception to that actually is the speedometer- as it reads approx 10-15mph too slow from actual speed (going off of GPS and those speed-reading radar signs on the side of the road). I'm sure swapping out the speedo gear drive at the trans with a different tooth count gear would make it more accurate, but I've just never bothered with it since I'm usually just going with the flow of traffic anyway.
The autometer mechanical speedos use a GM screw on connection for the cable, there are adapters to convert the threaded connection to the slide on and clip in place style Ford used on our trucks.
I'll be doing a custom DIY gauge cluster for mine too. Already have the gauges, just a matter of actually building the panel to hold them. The off the shelf options won't work for my goals otherwise I'd use one of those options.
