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That makes sense so I'm going to have to fabricate something to keep it in. Thanks.
Another thought, instead of the doohickey I fabricated, is to simply tape a piece of sheet metal across the opening. That would keep the button extended and allow the key to be removed. You might have to bend a little lip in the sheet metal to hold the button all the way out.
If any lawyers see this, now or in the future, somebody has hacked into my account and is giving dangerous information of which I wholeheartedly disapprove. Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to install some aftermarket gauges (with numbers!) in my truck.
Another thought, instead of the doohickey I fabricated, is to simply tape a piece of sheet metal across the opening. That would keep the button extended and allow the key to be removed. You might have to bend a little lip in the sheet metal to hold the button all the way out.
If any lawyers see this, now or in the future, somebody has hacked into my account and is giving dangerous information of which I wholeheartedly disapprove. Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going to install some aftermarket gauges (with numbers!) in my truck.
Actually, that button has to be pushed in to remove the key. Apparently it was in and just popped out this week.
Actually, that button has to be pushed in to remove the key. Apparently it was in and just popped out this week.
The doohickey I installed holds the button down, as if you had hung a weight on it. For normal use, you kinda push it sideways (towards the center of the vehicle) and it swings down at the same time.
The doohickey I installed holds the button down, as if you had hung a weight on it. For normal use, you kinda push it sideways (towards the center of the vehicle) and it swings down at the same time.
Mine isn't like that, it pushes straight in to release the key.
My key gets rotated pretty close to horizontal to start.
I'm wondering if this column was swapped from a manual to an automatic truck?
The button is no problem for me. Press it in. Rotate the key back. Locks the wheel. Remove the key. I also need that to go to ACC. Going forward no button needed to rotate back to on or start. Works for me.
You should see what they did in the 70's on stick shifted cars
My 70 AMC javelin, 4 on the floor, had a rod that went from the steering column to the reverse lever on the transmission.
The car had to be in reverse before you could turn the key all the way to lock and pull it out.
\Most of the time when the transmission was pulled for a clutch this rod was not put back.
Over time the column would turn and you could not turn the key to get it out.
Then some ham-fisted person would force it back breaking everything inside the column.
When I rebuilt the column and seen why it was busted up and no way to make something to hold it up in place, I have a 5speed in the car.
So I have to remember if the key will not turn all the way off I need to rotate the column part.
The rod for the reverse lock out would go to.
Dodge / Chry / Plym were the same in the late 70's with their floor shifted manuals, PITA when moving them around on the dealer lot!
Dave ----
No, I have a 4 on the floor. From what others said it sounds like the automatics don't have the key release button.
I see, manual with the manual column key release and lock button. I thought a hybrid wheel transmission combo had spawned the complaint about the key release button. My bad...
I see, manual with the manual column key release and lock button. I thought a hybrid wheel transmission combo had spawned the complaint about the key release button. My bad...
I have ah 81 F100 built at a time when "hybrid" only pertained to plants and animals. 😅
If that works for you good
I was happy when the seat belt buzzer started working as now everything the truck left the factory left with was now working.
I know crazy right
Dave ----
