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I just scored a toolbox to replace mine, which is rusted out pretty badly. While the seal on the new (green) seal is still pretty soft, I'd like to replace it. Has anyone been able to source a suitable replacement?
Member Bloomfieldbum , Randy, in several threads mentioned his fix: using 1/2” bulb seal from B-D Company out of Denver. I bought it, and think it will work fine on my restored box. If you use it, you discard the thin metal retaining ring used with the original type seal. Save any and all parts from the box you are replacing, you or someone else will eventually need them. There’s a photo of my restored box in my gallery, I notice it was before installing the bulb seal, I’ll try to add one with seal installed soon, as well as a photo of the bulb seal separately. Between the toolbox flange and bedside, I’m using fender welt, bought off Amazon cheaply. You’re in the Bay Area, I believe, I might be able to give you what I have left over from the roll I bought.
Also, I bought cheaply (off either eBay or Amazon) the short vinyl coated cables with eyelets that attach to both door and toolbox body to stop the door flopping all the way down, as your photos show.
Randy posted his email on one of the threads about the matter, and replied to me for better info, so I pass it on: randy.stutz@stutzfamily.net
Something is wrong, likely with me, and I can no longer figure how to copy/paste the threads, or I’d do so, but you can search the archives.
Tagging onto this post, again. I added a couple photos of my restored box with substitute bulb seal installed, plus cross profile shot of the bulb seal, to my gallery.
I layed out for cutting my bedside to install the box. I used this drawing, from a previous thread:
I have a question for anyone who’s installed a toolbox in a previously uncut bedside. Making the hole using the above drawing requires totally removing one of the bedside braces, no way around that. Using the factory bracket and two bolts that secure the box to the bed floor , does it make up for stability lost in removing the brace? Thanks.
I have a question for anyone who’s installed a toolbox in a previously uncut bedside. Making the hole using the above drawing requires totally removing one of the bedside braces, no way around that. Using the factory bracket and two bolts that secure the box to the bed floor, does it make up for stability lost in removing the brace? Thanks.
Sort of. One other thing they did at the factory was added a reinforcement piece below the opening. In the drawing if you look at the opening there is a number 27814. There is no complete part number for that piece, so it is an improvise deal if adding a box, but it was a piece of metal the same contour as the piece it reinforced but slightly thicker than the sheet metal - that was welded to the sheet metal below the opening adding stiffening to that lower part of the panel. It was longer than the opening - essentially spanning to the rear wheel opening.
Thanks. Do you know if that strip was used only on trucks ordered with the box, or was it included in the kit that either a dealer or an individual would install?
Very happy with the way my restored box looks after install, the local body shop did great. He took the liberty of replacing the oversized bulb seal that seals the door, recommended by another member, with a lower profile/easier sealing rubber seal. They did add a stiffening strip at the bottom, and used stainless hardware to attach to the bedside.
I figured I'd update you with my final result. It's not perfect by any means, but it's a great improvement over the old one. For those interested, I used this from Steel Rubber for the seal.
I had assumed there was a gasket of sorts between the flange of the box and the bedside so I went ahead and got some of this P section rubber from Acme Rubber. It's bloody expensive. It wasn't until I removed the old box I saw they didn't use a gasket at all, just some seam sealer type product. Oh well.
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