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Increase castor 2* after replacing all the worn parts, the track bar is the #1 culprit when it comes to wear as it allows the front axle to move sideways. Increasing caster reduces the tendency of the front wheel to shimmy like a bad shopping cart.
Yeah, the bottom of the gold ones are identical to those. Quite noticeable when installed too. Check the ball joint for the track bar, that popped on mine a bit. It was rusted tight, no lube when I replaced it.
Yeah, the bottom of the gold ones are identical to those. Quite noticeable when installed too. Check the ball joint for the track bar, that popped on mine a bit. It was rusted tight, no lube when I replaced it.
I'm dropping it off on Friday morning after I get into work... we shall see...
Being of the overkill mentality, if i need something, I'll order from here;
Thanks everyone for the responses, sorry it took me so long to get back been out of town working!
I replaced tie rods and steering dampener so far, i picked up a set of the caster bushings, but for the life of me i could not get the old ones out!
I plan to replace the ball joints and will replace the bushing the as i will need to use some heat to get them loose!
Death wobble has not returned but i still feel a flutter in the front right, so i will be doing it sooner rather then later.
The spindle needs to come out, then you can use a punch and hammer to drive the bushing out. Trying to get it out without removing the spindle is extremely difficult because the upper ball joint locks into it, so if you didn't loosen the lower and smack it do so very little thread is exposed, it wont come out. You will need to replace all the seals as well which uses a special tool to install them.
The spindle needs to come out, then you can use a punch and hammer to drive the bushing out. Trying to get it out without removing the spindle is extremely difficult because the upper ball joint locks into it, so if you didn't loosen the lower and smack it do so very little thread is exposed, it wont come out. You will need to replace all the seals as well which uses a special tool to install them.
Yeah, ball joints can be a bear, I plan to install the rebuildable on the vehicle ones that Dynatrac sells when I do mine later this year.
Yep those were on my radar... I'd actually love to buy one of their Dana 60 conversion kits to get the old school bearings the way they used to come on straight axles in trucks, like in the 86 KP Dana 60 that went in my 96 F250, that can be checked and re-greased.
But i think next time my truck needs ball joints, I'm going to try these:
Had one of my guys drop me off at my buddy's shop because I dropped my truck off in the morning to have him check the front end to find out what was making that popping noise... he was supposed to just check and then I'd order parts to be fixed another time.
It was not the track bar ball joint... that will have to wait for another time and when it goes. I will upgrade it with an Apex Chassis track bar ball joint. Also plan on buying SPEs upgraded track bar bushing kit and their tool to remove the stock bushing.
When i got there, it was still on the ramp lift in the front of the shop where the bigger trucks go on and Jimmy was aligning it.
Turns out he wouldn't let me drive home as they said the passenger side tie rod was ready to let go and the drag link end wasn't far behind... 136k miles on truck.
The driver side tie rod end was replaced under warranty at the dealer before warranty expired and they said it was pretty bad at that time. I'd have to check but I'm thinking that was replaced in 2023.
Good to go for awhile now...
Drove home and the truck felt amazing. Apparently I had gotten used to the slopiness and loose steering because the truck felt brand new when I was driving it.
I've got some great friends who take care of me...
But the next time I need new parts in front, I'm going to go with Apex Chassis parts. And I'll order them before I need them to have them on hand for when I do...
Also plan on buying SPEs upgraded track bar bushing kit and their tool to remove the stock bushing.
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I bought the tool when I did mine, if you want to pay shipping I will gladly loan you the tool I bought, should fit in a USPS small flat rate box.
Took about 10 minutes to install only had to remove the 1 bolt. Didn't even jack the truck up.
I bought the tool when I did mine, if you want to pay shipping I will gladly loan you the tool I bought, should fit in a USPS small flat rate box.
Took about 10 minutes to install only had to remove the 1 bolt. Didn't even jack the truck up.
How'd the truck feel after with the bushing kit installed?
It helped a lot, I still get very minor DW on occasion but nothing like before I changed the bushing. I need new tires, after that if I still get any wobble I plan to work my way through the rest of the ends and joints on the front end.
I am glad I started with the bushing first.
So another Mechanic, who I call Jim because I call the other Jim Jimmy, said the tie rod end (lower piece) always goes first because it's just a sleeve through rubber but that the drag link end (upper piece) usually isn't far behind.
They probably lasted that long because I don't haul with it or do a lot of snow plowing like I did with my 96.
But I sure as hell will overkill my front end with Apex Chassis parts because they all have zerks on them for longevity and look to be quality parts IMO.
Here's the history of Apex Chassis. I used to peruse XRF parts often.
Last edited by Overkill2; Mar 29, 2025 at 09:25 AM.
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