When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Can someone give me tips on how to paint replacement parts? I’d like to paint everything that goes on, nuts, washers, water pump, master cylinder, body parts, etc. I’m thinking just a spray primer and spray paint from Home Depot? It would be patch paint on the body until a full body paint can be applied which will be a couple more years, but I need to stop the progress of the rust.
Most of the parts you mentioned were plated, not painted. Some members here know which parts got which coating, but I’m not that guy. There are kits available to replate some things, check with Eastwood , who also make paints which duplicate some coatings. I just painted my toolbox latch yesterday with their Silver Cadmium paint, it’s o.k., I guess. Don’t think I would want to paint any hardware.
For motors I dont like to use primer before painting with a spray can.
The reason is too many coats between 2 or 3 of primer and the same for paint.
As the motor goes thru heating & cooling all them layers dont like to play nice and they start to flake off.
I de-grease the motor then wipe it down a few times with a oil / wax / de-greaser then just enough coats of color to get even coverage.
This is all done on a stand so I can get to everything. 3 motors done this way 1 a drag race motor and one in my 81 F100 with 5 years of driving on it.
Dave ----
edit: Unless you are doing a 100 point restored show truck I say paint it they way you want.
I have kind of asked the same question about my 81 F100 and a 70 Javelin and because they are not restored show trucks I did it my way.
I like to paint motors the same way I would paint the body. Epoxy primer, then 2 part urethane. No need for high temp paint, just quality automotive paint. This is really for a new build, not so easy on just cleaning up an old motor, but urethane will not fail from gas and oil like a rattle can job will.
A flathead I painted 10 years ago...looks the same today
If you are on a budget rattle can it. Especially if it is temporary.
for engine I’d just get engine paint from the auto parts store.
if the engine paint is more permanent and you don’t mind spending some money then go with kbc motor coater kits. I used it on a build last year and there is absolutely no fading frome heat. Even on the FE exhaust flanges.
For the body. Still rattle can it but use an epoxy primer can first to ensure any repairs are sealed to prevent rust from starting.
Personally, I believe rattle cans are good for target shooting with the .22LR, and thats about it. I will agree, paint prices have gone crazy for about the last 6-8 years. One quart of PPG epoxy primer now about 200 bucks with the pint of catalyst. Crazy!! I painted my 91 honda CRX a couple years ago,
The gallon of red PPG was over 500. I now lean towards brand x paints to save a little cost. Viking paints, in MPLS MN. sells epoxy primer for about 150, for 2 gallons, primer and catalyst. They make all kinds of paint, made in house no big brand name owners. I'm no professional, maybe painted a dozen or so cars in my lifetime, but I believe the amount of work that goes into the prep deserves a better top coat than rattle cans.
My 91 Honda CRX HF, amazing little car, get over 50 mpg...I love it!
Other than targets, rattle cans are good for a guide coat for finding highs, and lows in the final stages of the real paint job. Two different colors of good primer is best, but expensive, and you have to fiddle around mixing, and if its 2 part primer what you don't use within the window of cure time, you wasted money/paint. So in the final blocking to get perfectly straight a lot of guys spray a light dusting of rattle can so when you block it again the two different colors will show lows and highs, and if its just a light dusting it should not react to the high build primer you are going to spray on the low spots to fill them up. Also, epoxy and 2 part urethane cure from chemical reaction, not air dry. So, it needs to be above 50 to cure, and if you put your unused portion in the refrigerator it will last several days before its junk.
I wire brushed all my fasteners as I work on things. Most I just spray with permatex rust converter and leave them as is. Not painted but haven't started to rust either. Lugnuts, trans bolts, spare tire hardware, etc.
I like to paint motors the same way I would paint the body. Epoxy primer, then 2 part urethane. No need for high temp paint, just quality automotive paint. This is really for a new build, not so easy on just cleaning up an old motor, but urethane will not fail from gas and oil like a rattle can job will.
A flathead I painted 10 years ago...looks the same today
I’ll second this! Try as you may, rattle can will not last that long. Clean, Clean, Clean again. Then epoxy and a 2k automotive paint.
