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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 06:48 PM
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P0011

2017 F150 Ecoboost here (son's rig). Got the P0011 so he took it to a shop who quoted him $1400 to replace two VVT sensors (solenoids?) and a valve cover. I watched this youtube and it looks like a 30 min job with 25 min spent getting out the tools and putting them back.

1. Is there any possibility I'm missing something here? No way would I pay someone $1400 to do this job.

2. Are there two on each side and are both sides as easy as in this video? Found a diagram and it looks that way.

3. If I do replace them is there a brand you guys use? The guy in the video says he used Dorman but no way would I go there (bad history with Dorman.)

4. Why the valve cover? This guys says you need to remove the valve cover if you have the 3.5 liter which this one is not. I'm guessing the shop saw my daughter in law take it in and figured this would be someone they could take advantage of.

 
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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 09:03 PM
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Your fault code is missing a digit. Should be four characters after the letter "P".
 
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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 11:56 PM
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It’s P0011. A Google search will tell you much. The valve cover needs replaced because after several years, the rubber seal around the solenoids gets hard and will be damaged when removed. This will result in an oil leak in that location. The hardest part of the job is spending about 30-45 min clearing the lines and harnesses out of the way so that the valve covers can be accessed, then putting it all back together.

It’s certainly not a $1400 job. Shop rates everywhere are insane these days. My son-in-law just got quoted $750 per side to replace his front hubs and vacuum actuators. I told him we would do it, put in IWE eliminators, and do all 4 brakes, at a total cost of $1000 in quality parts. All he has to do is invest a day in my barn helping me with the job.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2025 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by JKBrad
It’s P0011. A Google search will tell you much. The valve cover needs replaced because after several years, the rubber seal around the solenoids gets hard and will be damaged when removed. This will result in an oil leak in that location. The hardest part of the job is spending about 30-45 min clearing the lines and harnesses out of the way so that the valve covers can be accessed, then putting it all back together.
Watching that video valve covers did not need to be removed
 
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Old Mar 7, 2025 | 12:44 AM
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That was a 2.7 in the video. Go to a out 5:45 in the video, then listen to what he says. Once a valve cover has been removed on a truck that has some years and miles on it, best practice is to put a new valve cover and gasket on.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2025 | 12:43 AM
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IF the code is P 0011, the description is, Intake CAM over advanced bank 1.
Could be full oil pressure to the VCT forcing that cam over advanced. Is the sensor stuck open,
Can't vent oil out, keeping the cam advanced etc.
Or an electrical issue keeping the VCT from operation.
Or ... the Phaser is stuck advanced.
.
Just to help understand the issue.
Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JKBrad
That was a 2.7 in the video.
This truck is a 2.7.

Anyway, turned out to be the air filter. Last oil service was supposed to include the filter but the worthless place didn't do it. He said he checked the filter for the heck of it and it looked like a shop vac filter after sucking up drywall dust LOL. New filter and the truck is smooth as silk again.

Thanks all.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2025 | 06:40 PM
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Good to hear. Sometimes it's the simple things that can cause a lot of issues.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2025 | 10:00 AM
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I know right? He's usually pretty good about being thorough. He blew it this time and that air filter cost him nearly $200. He did an oil change when he didn't need one and took it to a shop to diagnose it incorrectly.
 
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