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Coolant leak.

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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 09:32 PM
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Coolant leak.

I have a 1996 Ford F350 7.3, and it's been in my family for years. It has original 102,600 miles. I recently took it to my favorite shop, and they told me that my coolant had basically ate a hole through my engine block. They put some Blue Devil radiator and engine block sealer in it, and they said it could have some negative consequences. When I picked it up, it had zero leaks. I haven't driven it in a week, and now it's leaking coolant from the front of the engine. I'm not sure where or why, but has this happened to anyone else? I hate having to replace my short block that has barely even hit 100,000 miles! It seriously makes me want to throw up.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 09:52 PM
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That is unfortunate to hear. I'd recommend looking at where it's actually leaking from. Two big culprits on the engine to leak coolant are going to be oil cooler and timing cover.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
That is unfortunate to hear. I'd recommend looking at where it's actually leaking from. Two big culprits on the engine to leak coolant are going to be oil cooler and timing cover.
The oil cooler was thought to be the culprit when it was leaking before because coolant was running down the oil filter slowly. Now, it's leaking from the front of the engine. They replaced the oil cooler gasket 3 times because they thought it was leaking from there, but one of the awesome mechanics put his finger up through the cooling channel, and that's how he found the engine block hole. I'm hoping it's not going to become a never ending ghost that returns.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 10:03 PM
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I would suspect the timing cover. Cavitation is real and the timing cover is usually the one that takes the hit for it. Time to do some digging to find the hole
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 97-psd
I would suspect the timing cover. Cavitation is real and the timing cover is usually the one that takes the hit for it. Time to do some digging to find the hole
If you do find the hole, is there any way to fix it? They're saying that it's hard to find anyone to weld cast iron. I'm thinking I'm going to be putting a short block into this truck.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2025 | 10:20 PM
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The timing cover is a replaceable part
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 01:22 PM
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Budget a rad and heater core too after that stop leak business.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Budget a rad and heater core too after that stop leak business.
Yeah, it definitely is a possibility.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 10:34 AM
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Heater is quick and easy at least. Keep us posted what you discover. Sadly, I believe timing cover is an engine out job due to oil pan lip.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
That is unfortunate to hear. I'd recommend looking at where it's actually leaking from. Two big culprits on the engine to leak coolant are going to be oil cooler and timing cover.
Well, I drove it to the shop, and it wasn't leaking when I got to the shop. They're going to look at it and see if it's a cold engine leak, but I'm hoping that it isn't anything too serious. If it is serious though, it's a short block going in. It's going to kill me replacing an engine with such a little amount of miles for a 7.3l PSD.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:22 PM
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My water pump only leaked when cold.

Get another diag before being bent over again. Heads at this point are clapped too. Budget $10k for someone else to do a long block installed.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
My water pump only leaked when cold.

Get another diag before being bent over again. Heads at this point are clapped too. Budget $10k for someone else to do a long block installed.
Honestly, that's what I was thinking on cost. I work 60 hours a week, so I'm not going to be able to do it. It blows.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:34 PM
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Head wear is all over the place. Mine are clapped at 285k. Some so-so at lower. It is a wild guess. Absolutely no way I would install 100k heads on a fresh engine.

Will you do head studs? Automatic...do converter and shift kit while out, 100% or manual fresh SMF clutch kit. Heavy duty LPOP and HPOP while out. Stock turbo or T4? Inspection for engine harness.

It really becomes wild.

I feel bad for ya
 
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Head wear is all over the place. Mine are clapped at 285k. Some so-so at lower. It is a wild guess. Absolutely no way I would install 100k heads on a fresh engine.

Will you do head studs? Automatic...do converter and shift kit while out, 100% or manual fresh SMF clutch kit. Heavy duty LPOP and HPOP while out. Stock turbo or T4? Inspection for engine harness.

It really becomes wild.

I feel bad for ya
Well, the turbo on it has less than 1,000 miles on it. It was built my Kent Barnes. My injectors and glow plugs have 2,000 miles. The clutch has probably 8,000 miles or less. It's a stage 1, I think? It's definitely upgraded. The stock one **** the bed. I put IDP up pipes on it less than 1,000 miles ago. It has new cnc intake plenums. This isn't my daily driver. If it needs a new long block, it's not going to be able to have a warrantee because there's no way they will allow any of my modifications or Hydra chip with my tunes.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 10:27 AM
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A few guys have mods on their reman long blocks without issue.
 
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