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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 03:11 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
It will run at 16* BTDC but I was getting way too much pinging and backed it down to 12* to 14* I think I am at now.
If it works on your truck that’s great. On the OP’s truck it sounds like too much based on…

Originally Posted by 1980F2Fiddy
It takes forever to start(I crank and crank it, and eventually it starts to run.. .
It should not be that hard to start. I can reach in and bump the key on the CJ (304 w/ factory DS2) and it fires right up.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 03:53 PM
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Some recent history may help, too.

Has the truck been running nicely with this carb and intake, and this problem is something new out of the blue? If those parts are new, did it run okay with the stock configuration?

Was this a derelict project dragged out of a salt mine, and this is the first time running in years?

Something in between?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 07:51 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
If it works on your truck that’s great. On the OP’s truck it sounds like too much based on…
It should not be that hard to start. I can reach in and bump the key on the CJ (304 w/ factory DS2) and it fires right up.
Believe it or not at 16* BTDC it started faster than it dose at 12* BTDC
I cants see what his 300 six would be any different than mine.

He went and changed the dist. and it is worst now. I would pop the old one back in and see if it returns back the way it was for testing.
We also dont know what plugs are in the motor as the plugs can have a big outcome on how the motor runs.
But what do I know when I chased my azz when my truck was bucking under load and I did everything but plugs up to that point.
As soon s I pulled #3 plug I knew I found the problem.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 07:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Some recent history may help, too.

Has the truck been running nicely with this carb and intake, and this problem is something new out of the blue? If those parts are new, did it run okay with the stock configuration?

Was this a derelict project dragged out of a salt mine, and this is the first time running in years?

Something in between?
I think he need to get it to at least start easier, it may not run good but it has to start before we can look into the running part.
I posted why it could be running rich power valve blown if it back fired up the carb.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 09:07 PM
  #20  
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Thanks for your help guys, I believe I got it pretty good, but still a small issue. Just put new autolite plugs in gapped at .044, and got out the timing light again and the distributor is tuned better, if not perfect (10°) It starts easier now, but my only issue is it idles sorta rough, and it “bucks” from idle to about 1,500rpm, then after that it is pretty smooth. Any ideas? Carb is tuned right and when I drove it, it didn’t backfire once (which is new as it always use to backfire a little bit) it didn’t want to die, and it feels as if I gained a lot of power.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 09:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 1980F2Fiddy
Just put new autolite plugs in gapped at .044…
One quick comment:

Which type of plugs did you install? Iridium or platinum or unobtanium or something like that? We’ve had several instances of guys finding out the hard way that these old engines run better with ordinary plugs. Of course, the kid behind the counter is more than happy to suggest the expensive version instead.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2025 | 10:11 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
One quick comment:

Which type of plugs did you install? Iridium or platinum or unobtanium or something like that? We’ve had several instances of guys finding out the hard way that these old engines run better with ordinary plugs. Of course, the kid behind the counter is more than happy to suggest the expensive version instead.
autolite 45 copper core ones, the same ones that were on it previously. I’m starting to think I may have bent a valve, as I drove it yesterday afternoon with the timing so effed up.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 06:34 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
One quick comment:

Which type of plugs did you install? Iridium or platinum or unobtanium or something like that? We’ve had several instances of guys finding out the hard way that these old engines run better with ordinary plugs. Of course, the kid behind the counter is more than happy to suggest the expensive version instead.
Man how true! When I went for new plugs for my truck they were going to give me them fancy plugs till I told him I wanted the old copper type.

Originally Posted by 1980F2Fiddy
autolite 45 copper core ones, the same ones that were on it previously. I’m starting to think I may have bent a valve, as I drove it yesterday afternoon with the timing so effed up.
Try and bump the timing up to 12* or 14* BTDC and see how it runs. As long as you dont get pinging you should be good.
Also when setting the timing the vacuum hose was off and plugged right?
Did you check if the mechanical & vacuum advance was working as it should?
Set timing no hose then bring the RPM up to 2500 / 3000 and note what the timing is. It should be more than set point timing. When back to idle did the timing come back to set point?
Now hook up the vacuum and do the same test to 2500 / 3000 RPM and note the timing, it should be higher than with out the vacuum. Did it come back to set point?

Did you do a compression test and if so what were the readings? If a valve was not sealing a compression test would show this.
If you want to get real crazy you could do a leak down test but a compression test will show a lot and is easier to do.

With out going back over all posts what year truck and make carb on the motor? How did you set the mixture, vacuum gauge / tach or by ear and how good is your ear
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 07:27 AM
  #24  
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Just a thought a flat cam may not show bad compression and either will a leak down test.
Poor running, low on power as that hole is not helping to give power and you can get popping out the cab as the gases go out the exh if the valve cant open.
Most of the time the motor will idle ok, unless the cam is really bad but will show up at higher RPM with the cam valve timing overlap.
Only really way I know to check is pull the valve cover and measure each rocker movement. If the cam is really bad you may see it when running?
Just something to think about.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 01:55 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Just a thought a flat cam may not show bad compression and either will a leak down test.
Poor running, low on power as that hole is not helping to give power and you can get popping out the cab as the gases go out the exh if the valve cant open.
Most of the time the motor will idle ok, unless the cam is really bad but will show up at higher RPM with the cam valve timing overlap.
Only really way I know to check is pull the valve cover and measure each rocker movement. If the cam is really bad you may see it when running?
Just something to think about.
Dave ----
Drove it to school this morning and it idled rough and drove rough (bucked) anywhere from idle to 1,500 or so, then drove smooth after that. Gonna limp it home and park it till I get new exhaust valves in it. I determined it’s the exhaust valves because when I got here I poured water on each of the headers and the front two headers were not nearly as hot as the other four were, so I’m assuming the front two exhaust valves are bent, and need replacing. A buddy of mine has an ‘81 f250 with the 300-six and he had to replace an exhaust valve, and his had the same issue of rough idling and “bucking” like mine has, so everything is pointing to bent exhaust valves.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 02:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 1980F2Fiddy
Drove it to school this morning and it idled rough and drove rough (bucked) anywhere from idle to 1,500 or so, then drove smooth after that. Gonna limp it home and park it till I get new exhaust valves in it. I determined it’s the exhaust valves because when I got here I poured water on each of the headers and the front two headers were not nearly as hot as the other four were, so I’m assuming the front two exhaust valves are bent, and need replacing. A buddy of mine has an ‘81 f250 with the 300-six and he had to replace an exhaust valve, and his had the same issue of rough idling and “bucking” like mine has, so everything is pointing to bent exhaust valves.
You should do a compression test on the engine to be sure. Replacing exhaust valves is a lot of work and money at a machine shop. You can't do it yourself and expect the new valve to seal on a old worn out seat in the head.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 02:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 1980F2Fiddy
Drove it to school this morning and it idled rough and drove rough (bucked) anywhere from idle to 1,500 or so, then drove smooth after that. Gonna limp it home and park it till I get new exhaust valves in it. I determined it’s the exhaust valves because when I got here I poured water on each of the headers and the front two headers were not nearly as hot as the other four were, so I’m assuming the front two exhaust valves are bent, and need replacing. A buddy of mine has an ‘81 f250 with the 300-six and he had to replace an exhaust valve, and his had the same issue of rough idling and “bucking” like mine has, so everything is pointing to bent exhaust valves.

When troubleshooting, a good rule of thumb is to avoid running around in circles like a chicken with its head cut off.

To get to the bottom of the issue, I've been authorized to break out the forum tranquilizer dart gun. This short educational video explains the process:


It's important to understand this is for your own good. Do NOT pull out the dart. When you regain consciousness, we can take our time and figure out exactly what is happening. Before committing my efforts towards replacing the exhaust valves, I'd want to run some detailed tests (compression, rocker arm lash, etc.) to be positive. Replacing valves is WAY too much work to try on a hunch.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 07:14 PM
  #28  
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Before I dive into the valve project and troubleshooting, I may have found a solution. A buddy’s dad suggested my carb float is stuck, which makes a lot of sense, considering 1. My old spark plugs were black, which is a sign of it running rich. 2. When I drove home today I had said buddy follow me to my house and he said there was a strong smell of gas, which tells me it’s running very rich. 3. My fuel economy has been out the window for a few days, meaning it’s rich. 4. I did just rebuild my carb and I’m pretty sure I got all the adjustments right but I’m not 100% on that, maybe I messed something up in there and that’s causing it to run so rich.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 07:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 1980F2Fiddy
Before I dive into the valve project and troubleshooting, I may have found a solution. A buddy’s dad suggested my carb float is stuck, which makes a lot of sense, considering 1. My old spark plugs were black, which is a sign of it running rich. 2. When I drove home today I had said buddy follow me to my house and he said there was a strong smell of gas, which tells me it’s running very rich. 3. My fuel economy has been out the window for a few days, meaning it’s rich. 4. I did just rebuild my carb and I’m pretty sure I got all the adjustments right but I’m not 100% on that, maybe I messed something up in there and that’s causing it to run so rich.
Post #2, #14, #19 where all I posted about the carb and dd not get any feedback on the posts.
Dave ----
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 08:34 PM
  #30  
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Before I dive into the valve project and troubleshooting, I may have found a solution. A buddy’s dad suggested my carb float is stuck, which makes a lot of sense, considering 1. My old spark plugs were black, which is a sign of it running rich. 2. When I drove home today I had said buddy follow me to my house and he said there was a strong smell of gas, which tells me it’s running very rich. 3. My fuel economy has been out the window for a few days, meaning it’s rich. 4. I did just rebuild my carb and I’m pretty sure I got all the adjustments right but I’m not 100% on that, maybe I messed something up in there and that’s causing it to run so rich.
 
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