oh boy, gas leak
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New User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 14
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From: bozeman, mt
oh boy, gas leak
So as some of you may know, I recently replaced my fuel filter, which has greatly helped my truck. http://ford-truck.com/forums/showthr...hreadid=176128
However, when since I replaced the fuel filter, I've developed a very small leak around the fuel pump (they are attached, see pictures in the thread by following the link above).
If you think of the fuel pump as to parts, the part that attaches to the engine block (part 1) and the part where the fuel lines flow into or out of (part2), the leak is where those two match. When I replace the fuel filter, I turned part 2 a little clockwise. Is this part supposed to move? Should I simply turn it counterclockwise to stop the small leak?
You may ask, well, move it and find out, but the gas line from the pump to the carb is a solid metal the entire way; I don't want to damange the connection unless I know I need to move turn back part 2.
Cheers!
Brad
However, when since I replaced the fuel filter, I've developed a very small leak around the fuel pump (they are attached, see pictures in the thread by following the link above).
If you think of the fuel pump as to parts, the part that attaches to the engine block (part 1) and the part where the fuel lines flow into or out of (part2), the leak is where those two match. When I replace the fuel filter, I turned part 2 a little clockwise. Is this part supposed to move? Should I simply turn it counterclockwise to stop the small leak?
You may ask, well, move it and find out, but the gas line from the pump to the carb is a solid metal the entire way; I don't want to damange the connection unless I know I need to move turn back part 2.
Cheers!
Brad
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
Leaky Fuel Pump
Brad,
That steel rinng around the mid point of the two diecast halves is a stamped, clamp, meant to hold upper and lower halves of the pump together. The upper half, where the fuel lines attach, is not, or should not move within the steel clamp. If it does move, it usually leaks. Which is what you're telling us.
Turning the filter cannister back will not cure your leak, and it may infact exacerbate the problem. THe solution is to replace the fuel pump with a new or factory rebuilt unit.
FBp
That steel rinng around the mid point of the two diecast halves is a stamped, clamp, meant to hold upper and lower halves of the pump together. The upper half, where the fuel lines attach, is not, or should not move within the steel clamp. If it does move, it usually leaks. Which is what you're telling us.
Turning the filter cannister back will not cure your leak, and it may infact exacerbate the problem. THe solution is to replace the fuel pump with a new or factory rebuilt unit.
FBp
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 2
From: Parkville, MO (KC)
I will answer Bob-63-292 first. 8 cylinder pumps had the fuel filter canister DOWN. 240/300 sixes has the canister UP. The pumps look very similar but are not interchangable.
Early pumps were made with two housings, screwed together, between which the diaphragm was sandwitched. You could remove 6 screws and rebuild the pump.
Later, opinions differ as to why, the housings were crimped together with a flange. This made rebuilding the pump impossible. Yours is the later variety.
IF, there is play (motion, movement, give, whatever you want to call it) between the lower and upper housings, the fuel pump is SHOT. Replace it ASAP. Not only may it be leaking gas OUT, but there is a seal that keeps gas out of your oil. These fail too. Thinning out your oil with gas can cause all sorts of problems.
We are talking a $20 part here. It is NOT hard to replace. The only special tool you ought to have is a flare nut wrench, or "tubeing wrenches". They look like the closed ends of your normal wrench, but they have a notch cut out. They grasp the soft brass fittings that are used for the fuel lines on 5 sides instead of just three like an open wrench. Obviously, you cannot get a socket or closed end wrench over a fitting that has a line coming out of it.
If you have concerns about the fuel line, then get a set of these wrenches. I bought an el cheapo set recently for under $10.
The rest of the replacement is sraightforward.
Early pumps were made with two housings, screwed together, between which the diaphragm was sandwitched. You could remove 6 screws and rebuild the pump.
Later, opinions differ as to why, the housings were crimped together with a flange. This made rebuilding the pump impossible. Yours is the later variety.
IF, there is play (motion, movement, give, whatever you want to call it) between the lower and upper housings, the fuel pump is SHOT. Replace it ASAP. Not only may it be leaking gas OUT, but there is a seal that keeps gas out of your oil. These fail too. Thinning out your oil with gas can cause all sorts of problems.
We are talking a $20 part here. It is NOT hard to replace. The only special tool you ought to have is a flare nut wrench, or "tubeing wrenches". They look like the closed ends of your normal wrench, but they have a notch cut out. They grasp the soft brass fittings that are used for the fuel lines on 5 sides instead of just three like an open wrench. Obviously, you cannot get a socket or closed end wrench over a fitting that has a line coming out of it.
If you have concerns about the fuel line, then get a set of these wrenches. I bought an el cheapo set recently for under $10.
The rest of the replacement is sraightforward.
