Brake booster causing high idle!!
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 14
From: Colorado
I'll have to check into that! I always thought that the hissing sound was how they were supposed to work.
Anyway, I fixed my vaccum secondaries today. Which also fixed the high idle when on the brakes. But guess what?? I checked my booster today and something went wrong and somehow my check valve was blown in two! It's BRAND NEW, and it was blown in half. I put my old on back in and it works. BUT, now, instead of it high ideling it slows the idle maybe about 50RPMs and makes it kinda rough because it gets too low in RPMs and my cam is rough. WEIRD! What do you guys think?? BTW, I can't remember if the hissing sound is still there or not.
Anyway, I fixed my vaccum secondaries today. Which also fixed the high idle when on the brakes. But guess what?? I checked my booster today and something went wrong and somehow my check valve was blown in two! It's BRAND NEW, and it was blown in half. I put my old on back in and it works. BUT, now, instead of it high ideling it slows the idle maybe about 50RPMs and makes it kinda rough because it gets too low in RPMs and my cam is rough. WEIRD! What do you guys think?? BTW, I can't remember if the hissing sound is still there or not.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
Something tells me your check valve was restrictive or defective. Or, a backfire can crack those open too. Your old one sounds like it's ok but the booster is bleeding so much vacuum now it's stalling the engine.
A proper functioning booster will give a little "wisp" when you apply the brakes but that's all, if it constantly hisses it's got a internal leak.
Barry
A proper functioning booster will give a little "wisp" when you apply the brakes but that's all, if it constantly hisses it's got a internal leak.
Barry
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 14
From: Colorado
Well, I got a price quote from Checker. They want $95something for a booster and $150something for the booster and master cylinder. I think thats crazy-priced.
Does anyone know if any other years would fit or could be made to fit? Like maybe the 80's Ford trucks?
My booster sucks and it isn't working so I'm just gonna take off the vaccum hose and plug everything off and just use normal brakes. Is that gonna hurt anything to not have the vaccum hooked up to the booster?
Does anyone know if any other years would fit or could be made to fit? Like maybe the 80's Ford trucks?
My booster sucks and it isn't working so I'm just gonna take off the vaccum hose and plug everything off and just use normal brakes. Is that gonna hurt anything to not have the vaccum hooked up to the booster?
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 14
From: Colorado
heep70, I dunno, I just think thats pretty expensive. Maybe its because I'm tapped out right now. I don't know if it was without the core charge. I know the core on my old one was $30 though.
Is my booster supposed to have any fluid inside of it? I noticed that it was kinda full of fluid when I replaced the elbow valve last week.
So you guys don't know if any other booster and MC setup will fit?
Is my booster supposed to have any fluid inside of it? I noticed that it was kinda full of fluid when I replaced the elbow valve last week.
So you guys don't know if any other booster and MC setup will fit?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 382
Likes: 0
From: Bonney Lake,WA USA
Yes, I understand the word "tapped" very clearly.
Fluid in the booster means your MC is shot. The fluid is probably the reason your booster also went bad.
I am not sure about different applications fitting your pick-up. I would stay with the origonal application.
Check the bone yards for used boosters and MCs. You might find a good deal.
Fluid in the booster means your MC is shot. The fluid is probably the reason your booster also went bad.
I am not sure about different applications fitting your pick-up. I would stay with the origonal application.
Check the bone yards for used boosters and MCs. You might find a good deal.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 0
From: nevada
no brakes
if you unhook the booster completely, you will have to use both feet on the pedal to stop. Rebuilt boosters are over $100 everywhere and masters are about $40-50. Dont cheap out on trying to stop a 2 1/2 ton truck when you really have to stop fast. It will cost you a lot more when you rear end someone. I recently had a carb pop backfire on a cold motor and it blew the cap off the booster check valve. Wrapped it with elect tape to get to the parts store to replace the $3 part.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 0
From: nevada
Honda racers
Ceetwarrior, how does 1250 hp in a vtec sound? Thats what they are up too, if you want to spend the money. My daughter is building a 300+ hp civic that will hold its own at the track. I've always owned American, but I'm going to beg to drive it.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 14
From: Colorado
baitmaster, 1250HP huh? Whats the torque? 25lbs again? Besides that, HP is for bragging rights, torque wins races. Lets see some Civic ring a driveshaft...... ain't happenin'.
My dads '02 Powerstroke walks "sooped" up civics all day. Can't wait to see what my 67's gonna do.
I figure why put $5,000 'trying' to make a 4-banger import 'fast' when you can put $5,000 into a real car and they will take ricers anytime. Plus civics aren't cool unless they are stock. Don't lower yourself to beg to drive a "fast" civic!
My dads '02 Powerstroke walks "sooped" up civics all day. Can't wait to see what my 67's gonna do.
I figure why put $5,000 'trying' to make a 4-banger import 'fast' when you can put $5,000 into a real car and they will take ricers anytime. Plus civics aren't cool unless they are stock. Don't lower yourself to beg to drive a "fast" civic!
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 14
From: Colorado
baitmaster, I went to a new junkyard and got a booster off a '71. The rod length is different because the 70-72?'s have a different brake setup from what I've seen. Anyway, we took the rod and cut it down 1 1/2 and welded it back together and made it work. The booster works well and its bigger than my old one.
Speaking of stopping quick, I wanna do a disk conversion sometime in the future. That would be really cool.
Speaking of stopping quick, I wanna do a disk conversion sometime in the future. That would be really cool.