To anyone who can help...

Well, i was hoping someone with a little more experience at the Bronc's (i've only been a bronco owner for a little over 4 years) could help me out with my rear power window. It wasn't working when i bought the truck, so i put a new motor in it, and it worked fine for about 3 months. then while i was rolling it up, it just died. i took out the motor and replaced it 3 different times, to no avail. finally got smart and hooked it to the battery to see if it was the motor, and it wasn't. The motor is fine, so i am sure it is somewhere in the wiring now. I am really not that good at anything electrical (turning wrenches is more my specialty!) and i have been dreading tracing wires throughout the truck (i also put a new dash switch in to see if that was the problem). Is there anything i have missed? If so, how would i go about fixing this little nightmare? i have read another article on here saying something about a switch on the drivers side of the tailgate and it being touchy. Can i replace the switch? If not is there any way to bypass it? Thanks to any of you guys who can give me a hand here, i would really appreciate.

 

Check the wiring going from the tailgate to the fender. It gets chaffed and broken against the sides there. Also, on the drivers side, inside the tailgate, is a safety switch that wont allow power to the motor if the tailgate isnt closed all the way. Try slamming the gate a couple of times. If that doesnt do it then you may have to check the switch itself. They are notorius for being real touchy. yes you can replace it or bypass it, but if you bypass, be real careful about operating the window with the gate down. It needs support if raised with the gate down or it will shatter. If you need more info on the tailgate...so a search for TAILGATE WINDOW in this forum. You will get more than you need for information. Somewhere in there is a link describing the details for your tailgate.

 

There is a connector located in the rear of the vehicle (underneath) in a frame member. The harness that goes thru the tail light ends up there too.

This connection usually gets VERY corroded. You need to check inside the plug and the wires on both sides.

Good luck
Bob

 

CHECK ALL YOUR CONNECTIONS TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY BROKEN WIRES.THE WIRES ARE TWISTED AND HAVE SOME AREAS WHERE THEY COULD BE BROKEN DUE TO THE ANGLE THAT THE WIRE WAS POSITIONED IN FROM THE FACTORY.ONE OF THOSE CONTINUITY TEST LIGHTS THAT LOOKS LIKE A SCREWDRIVER THAT HAS A WIRE COMING OUT OF IT WITH A SMALL CLIP ON THE END OF IT.BY TAKING OFF A LITTLE OF THE INSULATION OF THE WIRE AND THEN YOU WILL NEED SOMEONE TO PUSH THE DASH SWITCH SO YOU CAN MAKE SURE THE WIRE ISN'T SPLITCHECK FOR CONTINUITY IN THE WIRES GOING TO THE WINDOW MOTOR.IF YOUR MOTOR IS GOOD THEN IT WOULD BE THE CASE OR EVEN CHECK THE FUSE.

 

my guess is that if you get the tailgate open you will see on the drivers side a wire harness that has i beleive 6 wires in it. there is a wire for power to the key switch that if i remember correctly is black with white stripe . from opening and closeing the tailgate breaks. you can bypass the switch by twisting the two wires that go to it together. try pushing on the tailgate driverside while someone operates the switch it may be that the nylon bushing on the strike has worn and the switch is not closeing all the way

 

Thanks alot for the responses. Just a couple more quick questions. Anyone know where i can get ahold of one of those switches other than the dealership? Also, will i need to replace the locking/window rolling mechanism as well? thanks alot guys, you sure are filling me full of good things to try!

 

try,
www.broncograveyard.com

 

Bud,
As previously suggested, bypass the latch switch. It could be the problem. The latch is in the up position when the tailgate is open. when you slam it shut, the latch turns downward, activating an electric swith, allowing operation of the rear glass. I just cut both wires to the switch and joined them together.

That was several years ago with my 1980 Bronco. Somebody remind me, was there a second switch in the tailgate (other than the key switch)?

Tyler

 

Can anyone tell me the color of the wires for the safety switch (for an '88)? I would rather cut/splice them outside the tailgate (in the harness between the body and tailgate) if at all possible. Thanks.

 

Don't forget to keep your gears greesed up. if you don't they will seize up on you. when i bought my seccond bronco, the window would only roll halfway down, i just went in there and worked greese into the gears, and rolled the window up and down for a while, helping it open further with a little pressure, and it has worked great ever since. you should be going in there once a year to greese them. plus you get to see what kind of shape the inside of your tailgate is, and when you will have to replace it, so it isn't as much of a surprise

 

From motor to safety switch......Red w/ yellow
From safety switch to key Switch.....tan w/ black
From key switch to motor.....yellow w/ red

Haynes manuals are a wonderful thing

 

Whoops...I doubt that you can do it from the harness outside the tailgate...but you should be able to get to the harness inside enough to splice em. Look for those little tabs inside the tailgate, that holds the harness in place. You may be able to undo those enough to get to the wires you need.

 

Just went thru this. Dealer was SCAMMING my mom bigtime. After a few simple checks, found the Latch Switch to be the culprit (even tho dealer had already replaced the old good one w/ a new good one -- $11 part + $250 labor). blah, blah, blah... anyway...

1. first check motor

- is motor working? (pull rear cover and apply direct 12v [from an old battery or run long cables from batt] to pulled motor connector -- very obvious to find the connector, is near gate release handle)

- is KEY SWITCH applying 12v when turned? (check at same place as pulled motor connector only on switch side, duh -- may take two people and a multimeter or 12v test lamp)

- is TAILGATE SAFETY switch bad (MOST LIKELY!!)? if above two work, its your safety switch. just bypass it. disconnect from drivers side rear latch and jumper it or cut connector and twist wires).

just NOW have to go after Dealer for the hundreds of $$$ scammed from my retired mom for complete misdiagnosis. <curses!>

 

Make sure you check the connections going to your motor. The tailgates catch alot of moisture and get corroded very easily. After you clean the contacts on the wiring, you may want to check for voltage. I reccommend you buy a Haynes repair manual, they only cost $12.00 and will pay for itself the first time you use it.

 

I agree with IFT. The manual is gold! oh and check the connections too.