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Another tip you can try for a bolt that snaps (like the water pump bolts on a V8) is to take a piece of steel , drill a hole that just fits over whats left of the stud and electric weld together. The heat helps to break down the rust. After it cools a bit spray WD40, Motion, etc., on it to contract it some more, fit a wrench or adjs. to what you have welded and turn slowly. It also works on exhaust studs as well.
It would be good to have some small specialty rod around, in the 90 to 110,000 range would often help when strength becomes an issue. We do a lot of them with a wire feeder. When the weld isnt strong enough something that works is, take a lockwasher, put in vice and twist it till its flat so it would no longer bite, then lay over broken part and weld on. Then add another flat then a nut for turning. Usuaslly use hardened hardware. If you had hardened flat washers you could skip the lock, but a lock is very hard and mixes with the weld and makes a much stronger weld to improve twisting power. Sometimes it takes a couple tries but I usually get them.
Just be sure to let the weld cool completely before trying to turn the nut, it could ring off and leave you to do all over again. As in all things patience is a virture?
if theres something left to grab us a verysmall pair of vice grips(with good teeth)(vicegrip brand only not cheap knock offs) clamp very hard, then heat, cool down, spray wd-40 , wiggle back & forth, also tap on top & bottom with a hammer hope this helps
All,
Is this common practice? Whatever happened to drilling and easy outing them? I usually drill all the way through and then hammer an allen wrench into the hole. Surprisingly, this works for me time and time again. You guys must have some seriously seized bolts!
Consider it,
KingFisher
i'm with these guys, i useually weld a peice of square stock onto the broken bolt with the mig. get it good and hot, then melt a little cutting paste onto the threads. after it cools a bit i hit it with wd-40, then work it back and forth with an adjustable.
drilling and easyouting is a last resort, i hate easyouts. they are a real pain if you break them, and if you don't drill the hole stright enough, you've soon got a ruined hole...
all these are great ideals, it all depends on the job, how big or small the area you have to work in, if open flame is an option,or it you can fit the tool in the where you want to
My own success rate in drilling all the way thru is pretty dismal but I have had good luck drilling an undersize hole and driving a TORX bit into it creating a sort of spline drive, if done right it is very strong and works well, yes, it may ruin the torx but they are cheap
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