I had some fantastic progress on my '53 F100 engine occur over the weekend but it appears the effort was a complete waste of time.

After five months of fighting with this engine, pistons 2, 3, and 8 finally exited the block. Still some grumpy valves but the block looked great.




Until I started to wire wheel around cylinder number two.


I talked with R&R Engine Rebuilding in Thunder Bay, ON this morning and they say they will not touch a block with this kind of crack. It's a real shame because the rest of the block is actually in pretty good condition. The engine still had anti-freeze in it after sitting 40+ years and according to the bearing manufacture dates, it was rebuilt about five years prior to it being parked in 1981.

I do have some options for other flathead engines before I completely give up and go with a 302 or 351 but I was really hoping this engine was going to work out.

Although I expect it will all be bad news, let me know if you have any suggestions.

Thanks

 

I went with a motor from Josh rather than rebuild mine (still and H series straight 6), even after shipping from UT to CO (through fastenal blue lane service) it was far far cheaper than machine shop. @jmadsen

 

Dude it sucks...Assembled my bed today. Me and my son were setting it on the frame....banged it on the vise on my work bench and nicked it up....

It happens......just know you arent alone lol

 

That is a shame about your engine block.
This is one of the reasons I have such respect for those who rebuild old vehicles to original specs. It is hard enough to find parts, but then to deal with problems such as you are going through is difficult.

Some folks do not care for restomods, but they can be built from mild to wild and most of the popular late model engines are cheaper than rebuilding the original engines, and they are more reliable.

Good luck with your project.
Wishing you the best.

 

Sorry for your bad fortune but from the condition of that engine I was afraid that's what you'd find. It may have had anti freeze in the water jackets but that looked like water had gotten down into the intake and settled in the valve pocket and cylinder. That wouldn't have had anti freeze there and could have froze and thawed many times over several years. Sucks, but it happens.

 

My 8BA in the 1952 F1 I just restored had a similar problem and this seems to be a common problem. It's usually #2 and #3 caused by the exhaust crossover and extra heat. I contacted Irontite and pinned the cracks which extended into the cylinder walls. My experiences were shared on the Ford Barn and you can follow this on "Hairline Crack" below. I finished the truck in the Fall of 2023 and it ran fine on one club tour and some driving around with family. The only problem was weak compression on #2. Last Spring it started misfiring on the first outing and I spent a lot of time trying figure out the problem. Eventually I traced it to the hardened valve seat coming loose and rattling around. I replaced the seat and valve. The fixed cracks looked good. This time I glued the seat in with Permatex 64000 high temperature sleeve retainer. It ran fine on another club tour. Before putting the truck away for the winter I decided to pull the head to fix a crack that was seeping next to a spark plug. I noticed again that the seat was loose. This time I hammered it back in with the glue and some shim stock. I'm not confident that it will hold so I have decided that this spring I will spot weld the seat in with nickel rod. Anyone have thoughts or experience with that plan? The other link is an interesting video by someone else dealing with the same problem. Hope this help.

Hairline Crack - The Ford Barn
ATTEMPTING To Repair A CRACKED 1953 Mercury Flathead V8

 

I believe Jim’s Machine Ship has a video on YouTube about repairing a crack at the valve seat (flathead). They’re in Colorado.

 

I have seen their video. I get the impression that they are not super confident with that repair working long term.

I have two more 8BA blocks but they are likely even worse than the engine in my truck. I also have two more complete engines I will be picking up once the snow is gone. Additionally, the machine shop said they know of someone who has a large number of blocks and they could put me in contact with that person if I wanted to proceed that way. I am kind of in a holding pattern on the engine till spring but I will continue to work on the truck while I wait for the snow to go away.

While this crack is a disappointment, the rest of the internals in the engine are in very good condition and will be kept for potential future use.

 

I agree with your shop, I wouldn't touch a block with a crack there. There is nothing to "stitch" to, and it looks like the crack goes under the valve seat. Any repairs there would be a Hail Mary to save a block that already had lots of work done. Good luck in your search for a solid block, there are lots of them up there in the wheat fields. I know a source in Regina SK if you can't find one closer.

 

Nice cutaway Ross. Thanks for posting.