AC or no AC
I don’t know that I’d ever get it hooked up and working. The brackets are there but the compressor gone and hoses cut.
I’ve never liked the big heater box in the engine bay and this one is broken beyond repair.
with that said I’ve always liked the heater in these as opposed to the non AC trucks.
on the con side again is dealing with the vacuum crap rather than cables only.
I’m going to Missouri soon for parts and the guy has a cab I can cut the patch panel from and get the heater box.
do you think I should hunt up a new heater box or buy the patch panel and convert even if I may never have working AC?
It was nice on some long trips we took just us and our dog. In 1989 I had the truck repainted. I put a hood from a '79 on it too. Somewhere about then, I tried it without the big bug shield across the hood front, and suddenly my vents worked, even the AC seemed to blow better. In 2022 / 23 I was in the process of refurbishing the truck, including the AC. New Compressor seal. Seemed like it fought me at every turn, then the final straw, I damaged my copper radiator as a tube and fitting twisted off at the condenser and I removed it to mend or replace. Somehow the radiator got damaged too. I was pi55ed.
That day I decided to do away with the compressor, drier, etc and just use the rest of it as a nice heater / vent setup. I have the driver side kick panel vent too (I don't think factory AC trucks had it). No regrets, someday I may put the compressor back, new fill, hoses, etc .... but not likely. I will not be driving it to Vermont for a motorcycle or hauling the motorcycle to York, Pa. again. No trips to Georgia or SC outer banks on vacations in it either. I had not used the AC in years. The compressor mount is still there, like a heavy duty shelf, & I might even put an old ammo box there just to keep my lunch from the "Texas Inn" warm if we go "pic-nic-ing" in it up on the Skyline Drive? Maybe without burning it up tied to a exhaust manifold even?
I started to remove it too but then I would need to make a spacer for a bolt.The big black box under the hood doesn't really bother me as I can't see it from the driver's seat and I do like having dash vents, and someday I'll pull the evap core out and replace with a screen maybe, to keep debris out of the heater core behind it. I haven't tried it, but once that is done, might even be easier to replace the heater core if needed. I have added two 5/8" 'ball type valves" in the heater hoses so I can totally isolate the core from engine coolant in case of a leak & on hot summer days when not needing heat.
Someday, I might put the AC back in order, but I don't hold high hopes for it. Even when driving my other vehicles which all have AC, I rarely use the AC, preferring to roll my glass down instead.
gauge what youre using your truck for and then make the decision.
My 81 F100 was not a factory AC truck but in my old age I wanted AC even if I was not going to drive it as a DD.
Thing is the firewalls are different between factory AC and non-AC trucks and I did not know this at the time I bought my truck and a AC parts truck that the parts were going to swap from.
Crazy me swapped the AC firewall into the non-AC truck. Yep that is how bad I wanted AC.
I did change from the 81 York compressor to a 84 Sanden one. This caused issues with hoses to the drier as they had different threaded ends but was able to get hoses to work.
When it works it works great but I keep loosing charge and keep pulling my hair out to find where from.
O-rings have been changed many times over the years. It will hold a vacuum for over an hour but looses charge in 6 months.
When it gets warmer I will look into it again and hope I get it fixed this time.
So again how hot / humid is the weather, if out for a cruise and get into slow moving traffic how well do the open windows work keeping you kool?
Dave ----

But you're right.
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FuzzFace, AC system can hold a vacuum forever and still not hold a charge. Get yourself a cheap leak detector kit with a uv light and put about 100 psi air pressure in it and you will find the leak. To be correct you should use nitrogen to pressurize but air works fine if you suck all the moisture out with the vacuum pump.
A fancy version of the block off plate.
One I measure out for a FTE member a long time ago. Everything is in X " 's off the pinch seam.
FuzzFace, AC system can hold a vacuum forever and still not hold a charge. Get yourself a cheap leak detector kit with a uv light and put about 100 psi air pressure in it and you will find the leak. To be correct you should use nitrogen to pressurize but air works fine if you suck all the moisture out with the vacuum pump.
The other day I gave the AC a try as it was 70*+, 24* this morning, and it did not work.I also know about the "holding a vacuum but not pressure" thing. When it gets warmer I will use the UV light and see if I can find anything then may use shop air, no nitrogen here
, but I also have a auto blow down on the tank, no water laying on the bottom, and I have a drier before it goes through out the shop, 5 hose drops with drip legs also.So it is pretty dry air to start with just have to come up with fittings to charge the system with shop air.
Dave ----
















