what are the best internal parts for the Dana 44 front axle (locking hubs rings and seals)

 

Dana/Spicer

 

Presumably for the 71 Highboy in your username?
Are you still running the stock original lockouts? Or have they been changed over the years?

 

I am putting 79 Dana 44 front and Dana 60 rear axles into it so that why I am asking and i am assuming that they are the original ones but not for sure just trying to replace them.

 

Got a picture? Knowing it’s a 79 is important info, but I believe some 79’s used the light duty version that was the same as the F150, while others used the heavy duty version which was the same as the F350. But none of them use the same version as the early Dana 44 from the high boy. That’s why I asked.
I could be wrong, of course, and maybe they all take the heavy duty version. But a picture will guarantee you the right information.

If it’s all original, and it’s not broken, then the factory Dana equipment is the best. Don’t replace it with aftermarket just because it’s easier.
Just clean up the original parts, lube it up, reinstall it.
If you’re doing the bearings and seal at the same time, then knowing it’s a 79 should get us there.
While you’re in there, you might do the axle you joints at the same time. Maybe even the ball joints? Not sure if you were planning to go all that way or not, but now would be the time.
A picture of the top of the steering knuckle might help to confirm whether it’s using ball joints or kingpin bearings.

 

these are the pictures I have right now that were in the day light how you can see what you need to.

 

Thanks. Shows ball-joints (as expected) and what I think are the normal "internal" type locking hubs, and appear to be the larger variety. Hard to tell for certain with just an edge shot, but that's what it looks like for not.
Looks rough, but sure looks complete! I'll see if I can get some part numbers for you, from the inner u-joints out.
But again, I would not necessarily replace the lockouts with something from the aftermarket. The factory stuff was generally stronger. So as long as grease was kept in the hub, and not too much moisture got inside, the locking mechanism may just need some cleaning and re-greasing. Doesn't hurt to have new bearings of course, since you don't know the maintenance history of the axle. If maintained well, they can last the life of the truck!

Next time it's in front of you, check for a BOM (bill of materials) number stamped into the front face of the long-side axle tube. If the number is in the data banks, you can tell exactly what model truck the axle was originally installed in, and what options (if any) were used. That kind of stuff.
If I remember, it's an 8-digit number starting with a "6" and engine with a dash-something or other? Been a long time, but searching "BOM number" might get you some needed info on where to look.

Back in a bit...

Paul

 

on the pumpkin i was able to pull this number C3856 and the tag that is on it i was able to get these numbers in red 4 09 D81A AGC
610040 4
I was not able to see any numbers that were on the long tube but they are also upside down right now so when i flip them over ill look again

 

Ok, so for '79 the Timken book shows only two model 44 axles. It's either a Dana 44-6CF or a Dana 44-9F axle. But luckily, they both utilize the same bearings and seals.
And interestingly enough, the wheel bearing seal is the same #4250 that us used on standard Bronco and F100/150 Dana 44's.
So, the numbers, per side, are:
1. Wheel bearing seal: #4250
2. Inner wheel bearing:
Cone/bearing LM10949
Cup/Race LM104910
3. Outer bearing:
Set-45

The inner axle shaft u-joints could be one of two different sizes.
Most should have the #297 or Spicer #5-297x
The heavy-duty 4500lb "SnowFighter" axle uses #178 or Spicer #5-178x joints.
All the SnowFighter axles "could be" Dana 60's, but I'm not sure about that. Maybe there are some 44's in that category? The u-joint book did not list axle type/model. Only weight rating.

Spindle bearing and seals:
1. Inner #722109
2. Outer #722108
3. Needle bearing #82110

Inner axle seals are:
I'm not sure. They don't list them under axle, but maybe that's what an "inner spindle" seal is?

Anyway, hope that helps get you started.
If you're needing inner gear and seal numbers, you can get rebuild "kits" for the inners, along with different ring-and-pinion numbers by brand.
But for the record, a differential rebuild kit is #DRK331

And, depending on who you buy from, none of these numbers are guaranteed to cross over. You may just have to look them up yourself from RockAuto, or one of the other suppliers that don't use original numbers.

Paul

 

Interesting. That last number you listed, sure looks like a BOM to me. Didn't know they also put it on the axle tag, but that would make sense.
So look up BOM's with that number to see what comes up. But from the tag, it looks like it came with a 4.09 gear ratio, with open diff. If it had a limited-slip, it would have had an "L" somewhere in the mix.

Paul