Fuel Pressure Regulator replacment
on them so I'm not changing them. Zero water in fuel when drained. So, I have a Motorcraft FPR coming. So, for anyone who has
changed one; what did you use for a thin wrench? I could measure the new regulator with my caliper when it gets here. I would
rather source a wrench and modify it so I'm ready when the new regulator gets here. My father would call that chomping at the bit.
This video will show you the quickest way to change your metering valve. If you are getting the P228F code first try changing your fuel filters if the code still persists more than likely you’ll need to replace the pressure regulator. This tool thar we have made turns this job into a 20 minute job vs a 4 to 5 hour job
call 719-338-3734 to order or questions
also www.juggernautwelding.com to order as well. (PATENT PENDING)
then I have towed our 11,000 lbs camper across Arizona and driven the truck about 800 miles. No problems and no code. I drained the water
trap and like always before, not a drop. The filters have a little over 8000 miles on them. I seriously don't believe it's the filters?
From my exhaustive research, the majority of P288F codes are the result of the regulator valve itself.
I have the third set of filters in the truck. The first two sets of filter was a waste of money changing them. There was nothing
wrong with them. Just a few very small specks here and there on the primary.
I have watched the video and saw the thin wrench he ground and is selling for $50 plus $12 shipping. I'm just going to buy a thin
wrench and do the same thing he did for about $10.
In the end, I'm gambling on the pressure regulator valve. It's my gut feeling. I'm 67, i have learned to listen to my gut microbiome.
keep us posted on that "thin wrench" you used.
here’s the link
https://a.co/d/4UMTTtl
You might own a stamped wrench already.
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So, I'm going to get a 30mm crowfoot and grind it to 0.170" and have at it. I will take a pic of the business end and post it.
to do it without removing the wheel and fender liner, but that was a no go. IMO if the flats on the regulator are in the right
position? It would be possible. That was not the case for me. The job took about an hour and a half working casually. The
original regulator had no rust or sparkles on it. It looked like the new regulator that replaced it. I deleted the code (P228 F) and
all has been well since.
If I would ever need to do this again? I would cut the handle off of my 30mm thin wrench. Then I would cut the female end off
of a 3/8" drive extension and weld that to the side of the custom crow foot. That will enable the removal of the regulator from
the top; making the replacement of the regulator a half hour job.
Note: After instillation, 1st start took about 2 seconds. After that it started immediately.
to do it without removing the wheel and fender liner, but that was a no go. IMO if the flats on the regulator are in the right
position? It would be possible. That was not the case for me. The job took about an hour and a half working casually. The
original regulator had no rust or sparkles on it. It looked like the new regulator that replaced it. I deleted the code (P228 F) and
all has been well since.
If I would ever need to do this again? I would cut the handle off of my 30mm thin wrench. Then I would cut the female end off
of a 3/8" drive extension and weld that to the side of the custom crow foot. That will enable the removal of the regulator from
the top; making the replacement of the regulator a half hour job.
Note: After instillation, 1st start took about 2 seconds. After that it started immediately.
great information. Which was exactly what I was looking for. I have a 2014 and I’m having this same issue, but before I made the purchase I wanted to know if this fixed your issue? I know I’m responding almost a year later lol but hope for a reply
yes, fixed my issue. Also a note, harbor freight thin “farmers style” wrenches fit with no grinding and worked great!











