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Does anyone know of any threads that might talk about replacing the EGR valve in a 93, 3.0L?? Or maybe someone could just tell me where it is ? I just can't find it. Thank you
his stupid Haynes book even shows it and says nothing about certain years or models not having one. The guy at Autozone even sold me one ! Now what should I do? Any advice?? Thanks
I know the 4.0 doesn't have an EGR valve, at least up to '95. Not sure about the 3.0, could just be only CA models. However, now that you have one from the parts store, you know what it looks like. Look under the hood and see if you can find a tube that comes from one of the exhaust manifolds. Follow it toward the intake manifold. The tube will end at the EGR valve. Or, follow the vacuum lines. One should go to the EGR, which is usually bolted onto the intake manifold.
Mikeman.. The '93 3.0L Aerostar DOES NOT HAVE an EGR as stated above. Doesn't matter what the one they sold her looks like...she won't find it. She should take it back to Autozone and speak to the manager regarding counterperson who sold her a part that doesn't even go to her vehicle.
The manual may be showing a picture of the 3.0L RANGER, which does have an EGR. That is probably what they sold her (just ASSUMING that all 3.0L's must be that same). That's what gets the wrong parts sold to people who really don't know the difference.
obviously high Nox, just cant pass the E-test, what causes Nox (nitros oxide) is hot or lean fuel which an egr valve is supposed to correct this problem by takin exhaust gasses and feed it to the combustion chamber to cool down spark pure oxigen causes high combustion, which creates Nox, your motor is equiped with a mass air flow sensor, adle air temperature sensor, three way catalatic convertor, and a cooling system. buy a back flush kit, install it, replace the thermostat, take off the maf sensor (4 10 mm nuts) look inside it there you will see a small hole, soak it with throttle body cleaner, install it. with the vehicle at operating temperature, empty 3/4 of a can of carb cleaner into the throttlebody reving up the motor just enough to keep it running, after you reach 3\4 of the can spray the rest of it in the throttle body causing it to stall, after the can is empty leave the van alone for 10 to 20 minutes, start it, you may have to pump it to let air into the combustion chamber to get it going, take for a drive accelerate fast, slow, fast ,slow and that will blow the sludge (also causes high Nox) out of the exhaust, I had this problem with e-test, also before you drive erace the codes, locate the black box in the engine compariment, it is located in the middle above the motor, pull the cover off the plug
ther you will see a six wire plugin 2 at the top,and four at the bottom, next to the plug you will see another plug it is one wire all by itself, from left to right put a jumper wire to port no 2 at top, and the other end of the jumper to the single one wire plug, turn the key on (not run) wait till you see the check engine light flash ,leaving the key on pull out the jumper wire, this will erace the stored codes so that it doesnt read that there is a problem when trere is not, a code left on even though the problem is fixed will still cause the motor to still run lean and cause high Nox. I hope this is helpful to you. information I got straight from ford do to a problem I am havin, results may be found tomorrow in this site under johnwa, high Nox,