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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Alternator upgrade

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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 01:02 PM
  #16  
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90% of the time it seems to work. But if you really need the full output of the alternator (you probably don't) then the single belt can't take it. You can get a 70 amp alternator in the original configuration(1G) but one advantage the 3G does have, it has more output at lower rpms.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 02:19 PM
  #17  
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More info here....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...onversion.html

You can get a new 3G Alternator on Amazon for around $100
You can get both plugs needed for the 3G on eBay.

Looking at your others threads , you have an idiot light, no amp meter issues to deal with.
I also noticed you have an older style Alternator bracket, pre smog air pump.

Also are you still the original round coil, or did you swap in sometime else?

Here are a couple of photos of the 3G... in the "will it fit" stage.
.




 
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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 02:47 PM
  #18  
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If it helps, here is the voltage reg. connector I got from NAPA. The new one has three wires. But for my 2g I just used the same two wires next to each other. (old yellow and green, new one I use yellow and white)




 
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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 03:07 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by JimsRebel
More info here....
...
I also noticed you have an older style Alternator bracket, pre smog air pump.

Also are you still the original round coil, or did you swap in sometime else?

Here are a couple of photos of the 3G... in the "will it fit" stage.
.


Thanks!
Your bracket does look slightly different. Angle seems wider.
Solenoid's OEM AFAIK. It's supposed to stay tho'. I read the regulator needs to go but starter solenoid stays. Why do you ask?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 04:16 PM
  #20  
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The question regarding the ignition DS2 COIL, has to due with reliability of the ignition module.
In one of your posts photos it was a stock round coil, but another photo it looks different.
Swapping out the coil for a High Performance coil , with a lower primary resistance, tends to reduce overall reliability of the DS2 ignition system.
Just don't want to see you have a road side failure.

I found a alternator bracket similar to yours in the junkyard, off an older truck. It took a long time to come find it. Just pointing it out for others that don't want the dual bracket, after deleting the smog pump.
Jim
 
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Old Dec 11, 2024 | 09:32 PM
  #21  
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I found this on ebay. For the price it's a decent pretty straight forward and saves some time. It's about the same price as a used Mustang loom that does the same job.

 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 11:48 AM
  #22  
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I found a picture of the 2 alternator bracket, side by side.
The photo is showing the 2 different styles of alternator brackets that can be used on a 6 cylinder engine. Pre smog pump is on the left. Dual bracket is on the right.
.


 
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Old Dec 12, 2024 | 06:08 PM
  #23  
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Note how the ALT bolt goes in between the 2 mounts.
If you run EFI manifolds and the dual mount one you cant get the bolt out as it hits the manifold and you cant get the bracket off the motor as the ALT is in the way
I ended up drilling out the bracket so I could run the bolt in from the front and put a nut on the back side.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 13, 2024 | 12:29 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Note how the ALT bolt goes in between the 2 mounts.
If you run EFI manifolds and the dual mount one you cant get the bolt out as it hits the manifold and you cant get the bracket off the motor as the ALT is in the way
I ended up drilling out the bracket so I could run the bolt in from the front and put a nut on the back side.
Dave ----
Will have to see once I remove the existing alt. found some help. Will report back how it went. Thanks
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 04:35 PM
  #25  
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Found a local guy that does restorations. He even has a '83 F100 in his yard.
Recommended i start by a 1:1 replacement with a rebuilt 1G 60 amp.... "you dont need 100A". He also said to replace the regulator, which he thinks might be bad too. Would not take the job for the 1G -> 3G.
"Too much trouble". So I am ordering a BBB 70729 from RockAuto. Comes with the right pulley.

 

Last edited by Rafael Suarez; Dec 16, 2024 at 04:48 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 05:22 PM
  #26  
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I would have bought the Alt locally. Just saying.

Make sure the Reg. connector is corrosion free. NAPA or local auto parts stores may have a new connector if needed.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 06:37 PM
  #27  
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Yep, stock alternator makes it plug n play. The out put is plenty. Especially if you are 1G. 2G folks sometimes have plug in failures. I'm 2G and so far so good on the stock alternator. Works perfect for 40 years so why change it?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2024 | 08:05 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rafael Suarez
Found a local guy that does restorations. He even has a '83 F100 in his yard.
Recommended i start by a 1:1 replacement with a rebuilt 1G 60 amp.... "you dont need 100A". He also said to replace the regulator, which he thinks might be bad too. Would not take the job for the 1G -> 3G.
"Too much trouble". So I am ordering a BBB 70729 from RockAuto. Comes with the right pulley.

I would say keep that guy on speed dial for when you really need him.
I he was right in not needing the power of the 3G if you dont have any big power users.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 17, 2024 | 01:25 AM
  #29  
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I tried Autozone and OReilly. No Advance location within 20 miles. They carry very cheap versions locally, but the mid-grade stuff seemed to be special order, at least locally. Then I noticed a few reviews fo the cheaper ones, and a couple were somewhat scary. Like a guy who got a bad alt, returned it, got a new one and had them test it, and turned out bad too right there.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2024 | 08:52 AM
  #30  
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With re-builts today that is the common issue with all parts., bad out of the box.
Dave ----
 
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