7.3 vs 6.7 - Help
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 16
Likes: 5
Just did a Chattanooga TN to Orlando FL trip with my 2024 F250 STX 7.3L 3.73 w 33.2" tires along with a 400lbs camper shell and 1000lbs of occupants and luggage. Got 16mpg going south with the wind and 14mpg going back via i-75 and doing 77-79 mph. Along with local driving in central Florida I got 14.8mpg avg across ~1300 miles.
The 7.3L is satisfactory fuel economy at speed but pretty terrible in heavy stop and go places where a fresh fuel economy reset puts it in the 6-8 mpg range. My F150 2.7L ecoboost easily did 12-15 mpg here along with 21 mpg highway with LT-E tires.
I'd definitely go with 3.73 gearing. At 80mph on my 33.2" tires and the 10r140's 0.63:1 gear ratio in 10th you get 1900rpm. I find there is decent amount of power on reserve for this rpm to carry me up all but real hills on the highway. I wish I had 3.55 gears because I could probably do just fine at 1810rpm doing the same speed and save a bit of fuel.
I also tow a 7500lbs travel trailer and target 68mph with it. In this config 10th gear at 1617rpm and 9th gear at 1769rpm cannot maintain speed on flat and definitely not uphill. I use manual mode 8th gear at 2192rpm and this gets the job done for flat and light uphills. Any serious uphill and I'm down to 5th or even 4th gear versus 8th or sometimes 9th gear when not towing.
The 7.3L is satisfactory fuel economy at speed but pretty terrible in heavy stop and go places where a fresh fuel economy reset puts it in the 6-8 mpg range. My F150 2.7L ecoboost easily did 12-15 mpg here along with 21 mpg highway with LT-E tires.
I'd definitely go with 3.73 gearing. At 80mph on my 33.2" tires and the 10r140's 0.63:1 gear ratio in 10th you get 1900rpm. I find there is decent amount of power on reserve for this rpm to carry me up all but real hills on the highway. I wish I had 3.55 gears because I could probably do just fine at 1810rpm doing the same speed and save a bit of fuel.
I also tow a 7500lbs travel trailer and target 68mph with it. In this config 10th gear at 1617rpm and 9th gear at 1769rpm cannot maintain speed on flat and definitely not uphill. I use manual mode 8th gear at 2192rpm and this gets the job done for flat and light uphills. Any serious uphill and I'm down to 5th or even 4th gear versus 8th or sometimes 9th gear when not towing.
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 16
Likes: 5
As a counterpoint perspective, not in disagreement with what was previously said, but rather just a different point of view...
If my back side was stuck sitting in a truck for 50-55K miles per year, I'd want the best driving experience that I could afford.
Especially when the employer has already committed to paying for all fuel and maintenance costs. That is a huge factor.
Using Ford's ESP extended warranty metric of one engine hour is the assumed equivalent of 30 driven miles, which accounts for city streets and freeways, stop and go bumper to bumper and open highway, traffic lights and drive throughs,, etc, then 55,000 miles is equivalent to 1,833 hours in the truck... almost 50% more tactical jet flight hours than needed to be eligible for positions 2 through 7 in a Blue Angels flight squadron of F/A-18s. That is a LOT of seat time visiting bridge building sites.
I'd want a comfortable chair, a comfortable ride, and a capable truck, if dragging around an 18K lbs equipment trailer on occasion.
If gas, I'd want the 4:30 for the acceleration and power to match that kind of trailer, as fuel expenses are covered by the employer.
If diesel, I'd want a powertrain that I had confidence would not let me down. If I already recently experienced a major let down, I might fall short of that confidence. But then again, after substantial experience driving the diesel, the gas powertrain might be a let down.
Picking the least amount of let down is of course entirely up to you... but picking a truck based on residual value, or resale value, when spending 1,800 hours a year sitting in it... that would be the least of my concerns. I'd pick what works for me, not what may or may not work for the next buyer when it comes time to retire that truck.
The employer paying for all fuel and maintenance is huge. Huge enough to very heavily influence a choice that might not otherwise be made. The only factor that is bigger than the employer paying for fuel and maintenance... is what type of driving experience you would want to live with every day, for 9.1 hours per day, assuming 200 working days in a year.
That's what is really important. What powertrain and vehicle envelope do you want to live in, and with, for that much time every day.
Yet that all being said, this is the best gas vs diesel thread I've read in a very long time. Excellent, intelligent, thoughtful, and respectful input from all comers. This thread, and the participants who contributed to it, represents an example of the best of what FTE can be.
If my back side was stuck sitting in a truck for 50-55K miles per year, I'd want the best driving experience that I could afford.
Especially when the employer has already committed to paying for all fuel and maintenance costs. That is a huge factor.
Using Ford's ESP extended warranty metric of one engine hour is the assumed equivalent of 30 driven miles, which accounts for city streets and freeways, stop and go bumper to bumper and open highway, traffic lights and drive throughs,, etc, then 55,000 miles is equivalent to 1,833 hours in the truck... almost 50% more tactical jet flight hours than needed to be eligible for positions 2 through 7 in a Blue Angels flight squadron of F/A-18s. That is a LOT of seat time visiting bridge building sites.
I'd want a comfortable chair, a comfortable ride, and a capable truck, if dragging around an 18K lbs equipment trailer on occasion.
If gas, I'd want the 4:30 for the acceleration and power to match that kind of trailer, as fuel expenses are covered by the employer.
If diesel, I'd want a powertrain that I had confidence would not let me down. If I already recently experienced a major let down, I might fall short of that confidence. But then again, after substantial experience driving the diesel, the gas powertrain might be a let down.
Picking the least amount of let down is of course entirely up to you... but picking a truck based on residual value, or resale value, when spending 1,800 hours a year sitting in it... that would be the least of my concerns. I'd pick what works for me, not what may or may not work for the next buyer when it comes time to retire that truck.
The employer paying for all fuel and maintenance is huge. Huge enough to very heavily influence a choice that might not otherwise be made. The only factor that is bigger than the employer paying for fuel and maintenance... is what type of driving experience you would want to live with every day, for 9.1 hours per day, assuming 200 working days in a year.
That's what is really important. What powertrain and vehicle envelope do you want to live in, and with, for that much time every day.
Yet that all being said, this is the best gas vs diesel thread I've read in a very long time. Excellent, intelligent, thoughtful, and respectful input from all comers. This thread, and the participants who contributed to it, represents an example of the best of what FTE can be.
I do appreciate the breakdown you provided. I was unaware of the warranty metric so that was interesting when put like that. Your perspective of knowing there would be some long hours in the truck and being comfortable is how I thought about it. When I bought my current truck (XLT w/ premium package) it was a step above my last truck comfort wise (I chose the 6.7 as I wanted longevity and something that would handle the highway well and found a deal that I couldn’t pass up)
For the next truck I am making the next step up to the Lariat trim level as it has some additional features that would be nice to have and I believe it’s the best bang for your buck (or at least the XLT with the premium package). Necessary for the job? No. Necessary for my sanity and comfort while driving the day way? Yes - and have no problem stating that.
Whether it be another 6.7 or the 7.3 is yet to be determined but will happen soon. It seems through reading the many responses the 7.3 with the 4.30 would be the best choice if I went gas as it would give similar performance to the current 6.7 I drive minus the efficiency. It seems like the general consensus is that it should handle the use as long as I take care of it (and possibly get an ESP for some ease of mind.)
If I continue with the 6.7, as some have recommended, it would be due to how experienced I am with them and like how they drive plus their relatively good reputation and it being a long time used platform. While repairs are a worry, with the company covering maintenance and fuel which has been a key piece in my decision making, as long as I budget some money aside to cover said major costs then the diesel would be a good decision.
There are a few 7.3’s for sale nearby with the 4.30 so it would probably help to go test drive one and get a better idea of how it feels. I’m hoping with it getting close to the end of the year some dealers will have some decent deals/lower prices (seems prices have been trending downwards already..)
As you stated, I’m a long time viewer of FTE and this is my first time posting. To say this has been one of the best constructive threads would be an understatement and has definitely given me some more insight on my dilemma. Both sides of the conversation have been extremely helpful and beneficial. I appreciate the points/opinions made as well as some of the very detailed responses that have been posted. I hope to be part of more threads like this in the future.
Thread Starter
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Trailering
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 16
Likes: 5
This right here. You have a Diesel, you know how it drives and tows. You would be disappointed with performance after a while with the gas as it is not the same. You would be filling it more often, especially if it has the smaller tank. There are also some improvements with the latest batch of diesels so they get better FE. Many argue that its cheaper to run the gas even though it uses more, but if maintenance is taken care of by the company and not out of your pocket, thats a huge plus on the Diesel. Install a DPK right away so when the CP4 fails, you slap a DCR on and never worry again. Heck you could do that now on your current truck and not worry about it for the next 800K miles.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,347
Likes: 4,375
From: SW VA
If your new truck is going to be a 2025, I'd be leery of the Lariat. Sounds like Ford neutered the Lariat pretty bad going forward. I haven't looked into it much yet, just hearsay from other members ....off to do that now...
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 122
Likes: 80
This is very detailed and appreciated. That’s slightly higher MPG compared to others I have seen. I have heard many switching to manual mode often with the 7.3 to get better performance which isn’t surprising. I tow heavy every once in a while so having to do that wouldn’t be terrible - definitely couldn’t just hook up and forget about it like I’m used to at the moment.. Haha
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 1,666
From: NW Wyoming USA
IMO Manual mode is a necessity for one's personal sanity when towing especially if using cruise control. Without manual mode the computer frequently tries to go to 9th gear, can't hold speed for long, drops to 8th for a bit, then tries again. Add some hills and what happens is you roll into a hill at 9th, speed starts to drop fast, truck panics and goes to 8th -> 6th -> 5th gear and is screaming to recover speed. Instead I just select 8th gear in manual mode, mash the pedal at bottom of hill, start to slowly bleed speed going up, release pedal when below CC set point, then relax as I finish the hill only a few mph slower than CC set point. No crazy gear changes == piece of mind and auditory zen. If hill is bigger I just do the same thing but in 7th or in 6th. You quickly learn to eyeball it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 7,975
Likes: 4,055
Has Fake leather, which I suppose lasts longer. They removed the power tilt/telescope steering wheel. Those were two items the forced me into a 2024 since its the last year of the power tilt/telescope. I was going to wait until 2026, but once something is removed, it usually wont come back, like Tuxedo Black.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10,168
Likes: 1,375
From: Chaz
So I own a construction business and have bought a few trucks for guys in your type of position.
I would suggest you get a 6.7/3.31 or 7.3/3.73.
Run a metric tire on an aftermarket wheel, mild AT that is between 34-34.5 inches tall. Or a mild AT 315/70/17 or a lighter weight 35x12.50 in a mild AT. Something like a cooper at3 or Yokohama G015 (personally have good luck with these). Maybe a lighter shorter 305/70/18 on stock rims.
No reason to waste fuel (even if its paid for) or loose power because of heavy tires.
6.7 with extended warranty and put a disaster prevention kit on it when warranty expires?
Also the best bang for the buck in 24 was order a base XLT and option it up skipping the premium package.
I would suggest you get a 6.7/3.31 or 7.3/3.73.
Run a metric tire on an aftermarket wheel, mild AT that is between 34-34.5 inches tall. Or a mild AT 315/70/17 or a lighter weight 35x12.50 in a mild AT. Something like a cooper at3 or Yokohama G015 (personally have good luck with these). Maybe a lighter shorter 305/70/18 on stock rims.
No reason to waste fuel (even if its paid for) or loose power because of heavy tires.
6.7 with extended warranty and put a disaster prevention kit on it when warranty expires?
Also the best bang for the buck in 24 was order a base XLT and option it up skipping the premium package.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 122
Likes: 80
7.3L gas / 3.73 / Bridgestone Dueler A/T 275/70/R18 AT LT-E 55lbs 33.2" tires.
If you want to go down my own personal engine towing experience rabbit hole I made a thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-w-3-73-a.html. I've mellowed since then after I learned to drive in Manual Mode + Cruise Control.
If you want to go down my own personal engine towing experience rabbit hole I made a thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-w-3-73-a.html. I've mellowed since then after I learned to drive in Manual Mode + Cruise Control.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 1,666
From: NW Wyoming USA
7.3L gas / 3.73 / Bridgestone Dueler A/T 275/70/R18 AT LT-E 55lbs 33.2" tires.
If you want to go down my own personal engine towing experience rabbit hole I made a thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-w-3-73-a.html. I've mellowed since then after I learned to drive in Manual Mode + Cruise Control.
If you want to go down my own personal engine towing experience rabbit hole I made a thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-w-3-73-a.html. I've mellowed since then after I learned to drive in Manual Mode + Cruise Control.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 643
From: McKinney, TX
You can remove the bed and install a flatbed yourself, just that Ford doesn’t offer the bed delete option anymore from the factory. Instead of ordering a chassis cab, you used to be able to order a pickup and delete the bed (Ford knocked $500 off the price to keep the bed). This got you around the ‘incomplete vehicle’ labeling of a chassis cab that some insurances and state DMVs don’t like, and you didn’t get stuck with the detuned engine of the chassis cab either.
ETA: Yes, box delete is still available on the XL and XLT, but it has to be a base model, and has to be the 6.8L gasser.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 12,347
Likes: 4,375
From: SW VA
Looks like they brought it back for 2025, but as you said, only on the 6.8l F250 XL 10k GVWR with virtually no options at all. So it might as well not exist for this conversation…
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 94
Likes: 71
With three overdrive gears the need for 3.73 is limited. 3.73 at work and 4.30 for personal truck, I to would pass on the 3.73 with 7.3 if towing heavy.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2024
Posts: 122
Likes: 80