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Check resistance between driver side terminal and pass side terminal of that fat red cable, should read dead short. Most likely pass side cable terminal is at fault.
Have you edited the post? There was something about 1V which I don't see anynore.
Don't crank, just do the measurements.
Let's start it over and make sure you follow as to the letter and report.
To check for good ground: Check voltage across battery terminals, then disconnect positive and check between + on battery and chassis ground. Do it on each battery individually meaning the other battery should be disconnected. Same exact voltage = good ground.
To check the cable: With all 4 terminals connected. Check voltage across driver side battery terminals then disconnect negative from pass side battery and check voltage between large terminal on starter relay and chassis ground. Same exact voltage = good cable and good positive terminals.
Another way to check cable: Disconnect both positive terminals and the wire from starter relay. Measure resistance between both terminals and then between driver side terminal and the end of disconnected wire from starter relay. ZERO Ohm? Cable is good.
Have you edited the post? There was something about 1V which I don't see anynore.
Don't crank, just do the measurements.
Let's start it over and make sure you follow as to the letter and report.
To check for good ground: Check voltage across battery terminals, then disconnect positive and check between + on battery and chassis ground. Do it on each battery individually meaning the other battery should be disconnected. Same exact voltage = good ground.
To check the cable: With all 4 terminals connected. Check voltage across driver side battery terminals then disconnect negative from pass side battery and check voltage between large terminal on starter relay and chassis ground. Same exact voltage = good cable and good positive terminals.
Another way to check cable: Disconnect both positive terminals and the wire from starter relay. Measure resistance between both terminals and then between driver side terminal and the end of disconnected wire from starter relay. ZERO Ohm? Cable is good.
driver side battery read 12.82 volts. Disconnected negative terminal on passenger side and read voltage from large terminal on starter relay and chassis ground and it read around 3 volts
This means bad connection inside pass side positive terminal.
To verify this get a piece of wire, jump from positive driver side to positive pass side (in parallel with that fat red cable, #12 is good, just don't crank) and check the voltage again across starter relay terminal and chassis ground. Now it should read 12.82. That positive terminal on pass side known to go bad inside. This way you have only one battery powering the starter. Bad connection adds resistance and heat, this makes your starter slow down.
That positive terminal on pass side known to go bad inside.
As do all battery cables after 35 years, to be fair. Seeing an IDI truck without a set of battery cables changed at least once in it's lifetime, is like seeing unicorn now.
As do all battery cables after 35 years, to be fair. Seeing an IDI truck without a set of battery cables changed at least once in it's lifetime, is like seeing unicorn now.
Where did you get your replacement cable terminals from? I was looking for something like this but couldn't find anywhere.
As do all battery cables after 35 years, to be fair. Seeing an IDI truck without a set of battery cables changed at least once in it's lifetime, is like seeing unicorn now.
haha oh no. I always have Napa make my cables up. I have the marine style terminals on both of my trucks. Then I just have Napa crimp on ring ends. Here's the F450. I changed them before putting the truck on the road, after seeing all the green powder come out of the F250 cables.
F250
Been great for about a decade on each truck.
Hey, I take that back. I went with tinned marine cables on the f250 due to being 4wd. I think I ordered them online, then had Napa crimp on connectors. Went 3/0 too!
Just normal cables on the 2wd F450
This means bad connection inside pass side positive terminal.
To verify this get a piece of wire, jump from positive driver side to positive pass side (in parallel with that fat red cable, #12 is good, just don't crank) and check the voltage again across starter relay terminal and chassis ground. Now it should read 12.82. That positive terminal on pass side known to go bad inside. This way you have only one battery powering the starter. Bad connection adds resistance and heat, this makes your starter slow down.
so do I need a new cable from battery to starter relay? The battery is only a couple of months old
would this work?
so do I need a new cable from battery to starter relay? The battery is only a couple of months old
Did you jump both positives on that fat red cable and read correct voltage on relay terminal now?
What you need is new cable and new terminals like in the picture posted above by FORDF250HDXLT.
Look at the bottom side of pass side positive terminal, there might be a cavity. The problem here is that the ends of all 3 cables molded into the terminal, not a straight through cable, but 3 individual ones. These could have been made better by Ford, but we have what we have.
so do I need a new cable from battery to starter relay? The battery is only a couple of months old
If you want an easy, fast starting truck, you wont keep any of the 35 yr old cables. You want to replace them at once. None of them are good anymore. Not that old. Look and you find whole kits online. Least they used to sell them.
I know it's pricey but with new cables, you'll be blown away what's it's supposed to start like. You've never heard your truck properly start before. She needs them. No way around it.
Did you jump both positives on that fat red cable and read correct voltage on relay terminal now?
What you need is new cable and new terminals like in the picture posted above by FORDF250HDXLT.
Look at the bottom side of pass side positive terminal, there might be a cavity. The problem here is that the ends of all 3 cables molded into the terminal, not a straight through cable, but 3 individual ones. These could have been made better by Ford, but we have what we have.
I have not tested it yet I will do that tomorrow. Do I need a certain gauge wire or just any wire?
I have not tested it yet I will do that tomorrow. Do I need a certain gauge wire or just any wire?
#12 wire is good, just don't try to crank and secure the ends well, you should read 12V on relay terminal with negative disconnected on pass side battery. If not, let us know.
That cable you posted is what you need, yes.
haha oh no. I always have Napa make my cables up. I have the marine style terminals on both of my trucks. Then I just have Napa crimp on ring ends. Here's the F450. I changed them before putting the truck on the road, after seeing all the green powder come out of the F250
I've seen pictures of your cables before. I meant to ask where did you get the thing which goes on battery terminal with bolt sticking out to the top, not the crimped cable ends. Sorry for incorrect wording.
As to NAPA, I don't go to my local NAPA store anymore as they look like Auto Zone now with new owner. There is another one some 10 miles down the road, need to stop by one day and check them out.
If you just get a positive cable, you'll put too much stress on them because the grounds will have too high a resistance. You really want to change them at once. When you change the grounds, take some brake clean to the engine/frame contact point,then sand it with sand paper, then smother it with grease (like wheel bearing/multi purpose grease), then put your bolt and cable in.
They're just called "marine battery terminals" like these:
They come in brass too, but apparently those have issues with breaking. I've never had to replace any of them on either truck.
Smother them in grease once installed and you'll have corrosion free bat terminals for a decade........or at least between battery changes haha.
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