I need help
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New User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7
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From: Va Bch U.S.A.
I need help
I have an F250 4x4 year 1988 motor 351efi VIN # is 1FTEF26H5JNA69946 the problem is when you put it into gear it stalls so you have to power brake it then when you want to go it tries hard but gets nowhere fast motor runs fine no smoke no noise it just wont get out of its own way but when you get it going its fine wont stall until you slow RPMS down again and not right away it only stalls as you come to stop and you dont power brake starts right up and repeats process. My rear anti lock brake system light came on still stops fine what does it mean. right now it has good battery and good volts but when you turn key it looses power and reads no volts what does that mean in the process it wont start.
P.S. PLEASE HELP I WOULD APPRECIATE IT THANKS YOU CAN E-MAIL ME AT gamemaster0009(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
P.S. PLEASE HELP I WOULD APPRECIATE IT THANKS YOU CAN E-MAIL ME AT gamemaster0009(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
From: Cary USA
I need help
Sounds very similar to the problems I was having with my 88 T-bird when the Cats went bad - I would have them checked.
Gary M.
White 2002 F250 SD, SC, SB, 4x4, 6.8L v10, 3.73LS, 4spd Auto, Reverse Aid Sensor, Class IV Hitch, Offroad Package, Manual Hubs, 40/20/40 Bench Seat, Towing Package, Camper Package, Lariat, Putco Locker Side Rails, Mud Flaps, K&N Filter, Vent Visors, Aluminum in-bed Tool Box (sits in the bed, dosn't hang over the bed rails), Vent Visors, CB radio w/102" SS Whip Antenna, Bed Liner, Bed Mat, Autolocks programmed off, Seatbelt Minder programmed off, Key in ignition sensor wire dosconnected...
White 2002 Ranger 4x2 3.0L V6 XLT 2 door supercab with the power group, auto, chrome wheels, mud flaps, body side molding, vent visors, Leonard cab high fiberglass camper shell, Bed Liner, Bed Mat, and the 60/40 bench seat as my daily driver
Gary M.
White 2002 F250 SD, SC, SB, 4x4, 6.8L v10, 3.73LS, 4spd Auto, Reverse Aid Sensor, Class IV Hitch, Offroad Package, Manual Hubs, 40/20/40 Bench Seat, Towing Package, Camper Package, Lariat, Putco Locker Side Rails, Mud Flaps, K&N Filter, Vent Visors, Aluminum in-bed Tool Box (sits in the bed, dosn't hang over the bed rails), Vent Visors, CB radio w/102" SS Whip Antenna, Bed Liner, Bed Mat, Autolocks programmed off, Seatbelt Minder programmed off, Key in ignition sensor wire dosconnected...
White 2002 Ranger 4x2 3.0L V6 XLT 2 door supercab with the power group, auto, chrome wheels, mud flaps, body side molding, vent visors, Leonard cab high fiberglass camper shell, Bed Liner, Bed Mat, and the 60/40 bench seat as my daily driver
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,742
Likes: 8
From: OK
I need help
If the engine labors to high RPMs even when not in gear, you have some good advice in the posts above.
If the engine runs fine out of gear (RPMs come up easily), I'd suspect the transmission. You didn't say what you have, but I assume it's an automatic based on how you power-brake it into gear. The fix could be as simple as a fluid change, as bad as a new torque converter or as horrible as needing a rebuild. Only a qualified tranny person can tell you for sure.
The ABS light indicates a malfunction or failure. Your brakes should continue to work fine- you just won't have the anti-lock function. As these did fail frequently back then, you should look into getting a NEW one vs finding one at a salvage.
The voltage (or lack thereof) issue is rather tricky. With the truck being that old, a wire may be worn (shorted) or the ignition switch itself may have a problem. I'm afraid this problem is one you're just going to have to do a lot of testing to find.
If the engine runs fine out of gear (RPMs come up easily), I'd suspect the transmission. You didn't say what you have, but I assume it's an automatic based on how you power-brake it into gear. The fix could be as simple as a fluid change, as bad as a new torque converter or as horrible as needing a rebuild. Only a qualified tranny person can tell you for sure.
The ABS light indicates a malfunction or failure. Your brakes should continue to work fine- you just won't have the anti-lock function. As these did fail frequently back then, you should look into getting a NEW one vs finding one at a salvage.
The voltage (or lack thereof) issue is rather tricky. With the truck being that old, a wire may be worn (shorted) or the ignition switch itself may have a problem. I'm afraid this problem is one you're just going to have to do a lot of testing to find.
