does anyone make a wheelspacer for a 2001 f350 DRW rear axle?

 

just buy spacers for 8x170 bolt pattern, the f250 uses the same hub bore.

 

Im not sure but i dont think thats right. I need hubcentric spacers and when you click on them in the different online stores they say only for front axle on duel rear wheel trucks?

 

Only the front axle on a dually uses wheel spacers. They allow the same wheel to be used in any position.

 

so you're telling me that the front has a different hub bore than the rear??? You do realize that makes zero sense what so ever.
You can put f250 wheels on a f350 even if it's a dually.

 

hub bore is the same but it uses the hub or in this case the spacer to center the wheel. the spacer has to have a lip to center the outside dual.

 

I need it between the rear duels to keep bigger tires from rubbing

 

When I bought my 02 F350 the po had 315/75/16's on it with spacers, it felt kinda funky on the drive home, found they had the rears aired down to 35 psi, aired them up to 50psi and had a vibration, jacked up the rear and put it in gear, the outside rear tires, both sides, were not lined up with the inner dual. Pulled the outside tires off and found the spacers were lug centric, used a uni-bit and made a taper in 4 of the seats and used tapered lug nuts to center the spacer before tightening the clamping lug nuts, did the same on the wheels.

All that to say, yes, they make them, however, they are not made hub centric, at least the ones I have seen, so you may have to do what I did, YRMV, but 12-13yrs later they're still working just fine. I really don't need them with the 285's I have on her now, but I may go back to 315's next set. Maybe not the best solution, but has worked for me.

I did take a sharpie and mark the ones with the taper so it's idiot proof, and thankfully my tire guy lets me put them on so there aren't any mistakes during the install process.

 

Spacers = Slide over the studs and get sandwiched between the wheel and hub flange. Usually they are less than 1". You can get them bigger, but you usually need to put in longer wheel studs so you can get full lug nut thread engagement. They also start to heavily stress the wheel studs over 1" and it's a good idea to step up to the next size larger stud .
Adapter = Bolts onto the hub flange, usually using the stock studs, and has a set of new studs in the face the wheel bolts to. These are a usually a safer option over 1" because it doesn't stress the hardware as much. This is more likely what you'll need.

I'm pretty sure no one advertises spacers/adapters for what you want to do because of liability. It's generally considered unsafe to run them on the rear of DRW trucks because they are usually considered work trucks and spacers/adapters greatly decrease payload/towing capacity. It's not usually an issue if you don't tow/haul alot of weight, but almost no one that carries liability insurance on their products is gonna say it's OK, you need to figure out what works.

You also need much larger adapters on a DRW than most people think because you need to factor in the sidewall flex of 2 tires when they get a load on them or hit a big pothole/bump/etc. If a 1" spacer keeps the sidewall 1/2" apart at rest, you probably need closer to 3" spacer to get the clearance you actually need when running down the road. There's plenty of posts, just on this forum, of people running too thin of an adapter and having blowouts due to the sidewalls rubbing through.

 

I'm assuming you have adapters and not spacers since they bolt on. If they didn't have lug tapers in them already, what made you think they were lug centric? They might be a "universal" type of hub centric and need a thin ring to center it. I've seen them installed more than a couple times without the spacer bushing. By taking the wheels weight off the hub you are losing alot of the strength of the mounting, and with it alot of your owing/hauling capacity. All the force that was on the hub is now trying to shear you're studs, which aren't designed for that load.