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I need to install an auxiliary fuse box in my engine bay. I ordered this one from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900357
The most I would be running through it would be 60 amps. But looking at this thing, it looks flimsy for 60 amps. I mean the post alone is 1/4". I know it is rated at 100amps, but this thing raises fears that it may melt or burn.
What do you guys think?
No idea. Looks like a nice piece, as many of that design style are. But whether or not it can live up to it's overall rating of 100a, I'd have to say so. Just not for very long maybe!
Do you need a 10-circuit one, or are you future-proofing things? I've always just gotten the 5 or 6 circuit versions and still have never utilized all of them. But that's just me. Always thinking I was going to keep adding parts and never did!
Are there charts anywhere showing what current a certain sized bolt/stud can handle? I would think that 1/4" could, but might start to heat up pretty good if it was called upon to do it for very long.
Maybe your 60a max estimate is going to be well within it's capability.
Good luck. No matter what you end up with, hopefully you never have to test the "max amp capacity" theory!
Based your recent posts it seems like you have, understandably, about had it with cheap chinese parts. That’s exactly what you’re going to get with just about anything tagged with the Summit Racing brand. Give the folks at Centech Wire a call and see if they have something that might work for you.
Hello there guys. Thanks for the feedback. I have been looking at installing a Painless fuse box with, iirc, 7 circuits along with 2 20/40 amp relays. I thought I would use one of the relays to control my horn. The painless brand come pre-wired, and is 160 amps max. It costs 4x what the Summit fuse block does, but having that in the truck will give me peace of mind.
I can't help but feel the Summit one is bordering on being a cracker jack toy. Thanks again.
I am disgusted. I threw in the towel. After looking at this cheap fuse block from Summit, and after getting bumper #2 from Westin/Fey that is rusted and thin, I don't believe that I can rely on getting a quality piece if I spend $120 on a fuse block from Painless. At this point I am returning the Summit block and all the wire and terminal ends that I bought for the project, and am going to stay with having 6-8 inline fuses. At least I know that the wires I have are safe and are not going to catch fire. I am choosing safety over looks.
Westin/Fey are now on my growing s...t list of once quality companies now selling cheap crap. Joining them is Davis Unified Ignition, Bendix, and many others.
What did I miss with D.U.I.? That would be sad to hear. But inquiring minds gots to know!
I called and spoke to a tech. 'The modules you put in your DUI distributors, where are they made?' I asked. He told me that he thought they bought them in St. Louis. Which meant they didn't want to say. They are using crap advance weights too.
The fuse panel from summit is perfectly usable. If you have a heavy draw circuit ie. headlights, electric fans, you are going to use relays anyways and not full amperage through that. Have no fear!
I have the Painless 7 circuit and I found it will do for now. The rubber lid on it will dry out and fall off however. Regarding your bumper experience and the Summit fuse box, I find we're at a point where if you want something nice you need to build it yourself or pay a premium. I used the Painless fusebox because I just don't know enough about electrical to build something better and needed to take an inventory of all the circuits I would need before doing so.
The fuse panel from summit is perfectly usable. If you have a heavy draw circuit ie. headlights, electric fans, you are going to use relays anyways and not full amperage through that. Have no fear!
The purpose of having a relay is so that one does not have to run a high amp line into the cab. However, installing a relay does not mean that a high amp line will not have to be used, nor that that line will not need a fuse.
Originally Posted by 5851a
What is the post size on your alternator, the post size on the starter relay?
Good point. I don't know. I will have to check.
Originally Posted by User 32921
I have the Painless 7 circuit and I found it will do for now. The rubber lid on it will dry out and fall off however. Regarding your bumper experience and the Summit fuse box, I find we're at a point where if you want something nice you need to build it yourself or pay a premium. I used the Painless fusebox because I just don't know enough about electrical to build something better and needed to take an inventory of all the circuits I would need before doing so.
I agree with you about premium parts. Isn't it interesting how American companies are making higher than ever profits while selling worse than ever merchandise? Aftermarket co's are still living on their old reputation. People buy from them because once they were quality and trusted. But now their parts are being made in China and are inferior. But, the co makes higher profits while gouging their faithful customers.
Gonna' have to disagree. The high amp "after" the relay has to come from somewhere. The relay doesn't make it, so there is an input of high current as well. That would be pin #30 on the standard relay.
And pin #30 is always fused in some way. At least it's supposed to be, in most diagrams.
So your fuse in the panel might be protecting a 30, 40, or maybe even a 50 amp or higher circuit.
Some might utilize a stand-alone inline fuse for this job, or some might use one of the circuits in the fuse panel under discussion.
At least that's my take on it...
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