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Persevered & was gonna do a test I saw on utube. Test , as usual did not exactly match my situation concerning high test lead test for spark. In the process of deciding how I was gonna complete the test I worried about 1ton's frying his module when testing for spark ! So practicing what I have been preaching , I decided to wait and ask if I should do the test !!!!!!!!!!!
I first checked my battery voltage before I did anything & voltage is down to 11.15v after sitting - connected in the truck in the 33 - 55* temps........Voltage keeps slowly going down..........
The spark test consists of removing high voltage distributor lead & holding it close to its female connector , then trigger remote starter & see if spark jumps between the two. My Pertronix dist cap is to long at the point of connection where the HV lead is plugged in. So I found a bolt that would sit on to of female connector in cap & the bring the lead to the bolt. Then I stopped & decided it may fry my module !!!!!!!!!!!
Any opinions ???????????
I’m not comfortable, saying yes.
I’d much rather see it pulled out of the distributor and laid farther away from it. No reason I can think of not to do it that way. Even if it’s not going to fry the module, why take a chance I say.
I forgot. Do you have a timing light?
If so, just leave all the wires and tacked and clamp your timing light sensor around the coil wire. That will tell you if there’s spark or not.
I think we’re pretty certain that there is no spark at this stage. Testing it while cranking the engine first, then testing it with the method I mentioned of grounding the coil next, should tell the tale.
1TonBase, I got an advance dial timing light . I for got u said if the light will not pulse I have no spark. I can just do that. The trigger clamp for the spark plug wire does not fit tight enough to stay closely clamped close to the distributor cap.
Tomorrow I will hook up light & see if I get a light !
What you think about my battery voltage down to 11.15v ??????????
P.S. Oh, You say put timing light around coil wire ! I thought you meant the 1 spark plug wire. So positive, negative, & coil wire (positive coil wire), I guess , then pull trigger !!!
Also , ground test the coil. I may have already tested the coil but again will not hurt !!!
Thanx...............so much............
Testing the coil does not usually involve a ground. Coils do not ground through their case. They only "ground" through the negative terminal (from a signal generated by the distributor) as a way of triggering the spark.
Checking a coil's function is more of a resistance test between the three different terminals, in different combinations.
There are specified readings that you expect to see, but I don’t know what they are off the top of my head.
When I say clamp the timing light around the coil wire, I do mean the big one from the distributor to the coil. If the coil is creating a spark, you will see the timing light flash.
If you see indications of a spark on that distributor wire, but not the plug wires, then there is something wrong with the distributor phasing, or rotation of the rotor.
Hence the previous suggestion to make sure that the rotor is turning.
1TonBase : I do not understand this: "There is a spark wire if you see spark distributor wire, but plug wires there is something wrong with the distributor timing, or rotation of the rotor."
Back on the FARM, Battery voltage with out anything connected, 11v, connected 11v. I think my battery is bad. A battery test is hard on a battery , so am reluctant to have it tested. . My afternoon has been terrible , I will have more later tonight ! I am gonna put battery on charger/maintainer because Pertonix module likes a full 12v .
I am almost at my jumping of point........
Sorry. Automatic formatting is not good between my phone and the site. Didn’t check it before I hit send.
Now I’ll have to go back and try to figure out what I was talking about. News at 11!