Intake manifold
The Offy if you can get 1 as I hear they are all back ordered come open plenum or dual port, open is the better one they say.
I dont know of anyone using the Clifford & webber's? Oh I think Clifford makes a dual carb using the Webber's?
Now you should know your truck should have the feed back carb & dist. (no vacuum to dist.) so you will need to change both to get the truck to run good again.
You can get a HEI dist off Ebay and a knock off Carter v1 carb and both will make a big difference on power and MPG.
What is nice with the above is you can get the HEI dist. install it and run the feed back carb for a bit till you get more money for the knock off carb or get a aftermarket intake and carb.
Just the HEI dist. will help.
Now if you have more air going into the motor you have to get it out!
1 way is run 87-97 EFI exh manifolds from a EFI 300 motor. They are mini cast iron headers and with the Y pipe they say flows better than the log EXH manifold you are running now.
You can run the EFI EXH manifolds with the factory log intake manifold and Carter v1 carb if you want. That is what I run and for me works great as everything looks factory stock and if I need any parts other than needing to know what year truck the parts are from I can get them at any parts store. I run the 94 F150 factory Y pipe on back to tail pipe, no cat and a Thrush welded muffler.
The other way is to run headers, Clifford has them also.
Thing is headers always leak so you got to replace gaskets at the manifold and you would have to make a custom exh system also.
Now note if you drive the truck when it is cold out there are a few things you need to know about and how the factory had this working.
Choke is hot air asst. it has power from the ALT "S" stud to the choke housing but it also had heat from the factory log exh manifold to help heat the choke to make it open.
Also the EXH & Intake manifolds are bolted together so the EXH heats the intake manifold floor to keep the air / fuel a vapor. If the intake is cold the fuel condenses and pools on the intake floor and the motor run poorly till it gets up to temp (maybe?)
If you go with EFI manifolds or headers this can be a issue as neither will have a way to heat the choke or the intake, factory or after market.
Most that go after market intake also go with carb so they just need power to the choke to heat it up but they cant use the wire from the "S" stud as it is not 12 volts so wiring is needed.
For the factory carb and EFI manifolds I took copper tubing and wrapped it around the EFI manifold 4 or 5 times to pick up heat and run it to the choke like factory had it. Been working great for 5+ years now.
As for heating the intake floor you can make a plate that bolt to the bottom of the intake with 2 hose nipples and run hot water in & out of the manifold before the heater core.
This is what I have and again works great in the winter of 20*f.
Some say they dont have any issues not heating the intake but I did not want to risk it as I needed to get to work at O dark thirty!
Last I can think of is air filters. If you run after market v4 carb it is off set to 1 side in the bay and the filter can / will hit the HVAC box if too big.
Because I am running a knock off of the factory Carter I still use the factory tear drop air filter keeping the factory look and able to get replacement parts for.
Besides being able to get parts from local parts stores and why keeping it all Ford parts I also was looking for good MPG as I built the truck to drive and use and why the v1 carb and EFI 94 F150 exh system. I avg 15 MPG with a high at times of 17 MPG with a NP435 trans, 2.75 rear gear 235 / 75 / 15 tires and I do have a over drive unit I installed so final is like 1.97 IIRC
I also pull a 20 ft enclosed trailer for my car club. Other than being a little slow starting off it pulls it just fine.
Dave ----
The Offy if you can get 1 as I hear they are all back ordered come open plenum or dual port, open is the better one they say.
I dont know of anyone using the Clifford & webber's? Oh I think Clifford makes a dual carb using the Webber's?
Now you should know your truck should have the feed back carb & dist. (no vacuum to dist.) so you will need to change both to get the truck to run good again.
You can get a HEI dist off Ebay and a knock off Carter v1 carb and both will make a big difference on power and MPG.
What is nice with the above is you can get the HEI dist. install it and run the feed back carb for a bit till you get more money for the knock off carb or get a aftermarket intake and carb.
Just the HEI dist. will help.
Now if you have more air going into the motor you have to get it out!
1 way is run 87-97 EFI exh manifolds from a EFI 300 motor. They are mini cast iron headers and with the Y pipe they say flows better than the log EXH manifold you are running now.
You can run the EFI EXH manifolds with the factory log intake manifold and Carter v1 carb if you want. That is what I run and for me works great as everything looks factory stock and if I need any parts other than needing to know what year truck the parts are from I can get them at any parts store. I run the 94 F150 factory Y pipe on back to tail pipe, no cat and a Thrush welded muffler.
The other way is to run headers, Clifford has them also.
Thing is headers always leak so you got to replace gaskets at the manifold and you would have to make a custom exh system also.
Now note if you drive the truck when it is cold out there are a few things you need to know about and how the factory had this working.
Choke is hot air asst. it has power from the ALT "S" stud to the choke housing but it also had heat from the factory log exh manifold to help heat the choke to make it open.
Also the EXH & Intake manifolds are bolted together so the EXH heats the intake manifold floor to keep the air / fuel a vapor. If the intake is cold the fuel condenses and pools on the intake floor and the motor run poorly till it gets up to temp (maybe?)
If you go with EFI manifolds or headers this can be a issue as neither will have a way to heat the choke or the intake, factory or after market.
Most that go after market intake also go with carb so they just need power to the choke to heat it up but they cant use the wire from the "S" stud as it is not 12 volts so wiring is needed.
For the factory carb and EFI manifolds I took copper tubing and wrapped it around the EFI manifold 4 or 5 times to pick up heat and run it to the choke like factory had it. Been working great for 5+ years now.
As for heating the intake floor you can make a plate that bolt to the bottom of the intake with 2 hose nipples and run hot water in & out of the manifold before the heater core.
This is what I have and again works great in the winter of 20*f.
Some say they dont have any issues not heating the intake but I did not want to risk it as I needed to get to work at O dark thirty!
Last I can think of is air filters. If you run after market v4 carb it is off set to 1 side in the bay and the filter can / will hit the HVAC box if too big.
Because I am running a knock off of the factory Carter I still use the factory tear drop air filter keeping the factory look and able to get replacement parts for.
Besides being able to get parts from local parts stores and why keeping it all Ford parts I also was looking for good MPG as I built the truck to drive and use and why the v1 carb and EFI 94 F150 exh system. I avg 15 MPG with a high at times of 17 MPG with a NP435 trans, 2.75 rear gear 235 / 75 / 15 tires and I do have a over drive unit I installed so final is like 1.97 IIRC
I also pull a 20 ft enclosed trailer for my car club. Other than being a little slow starting off it pulls it just fine.
Dave ----
ICE are a big air pump more air in & out the more power you get from the motor.
Also all parts of said air pump have to work together. You cant have a 6" air inlet (carb or intake manifold) and not have the head ports able to flow the air or the exh system of say 1" size for the same reason. And dont forget the cam as it also has to work with the air flow as it opens & closes the valves to let the air flow when it needs to.
It is a package and needs to work that way.
Most of the time when you increase air flow for more power the RPM that it make that power also goes up.
So if stock the power is say 2000 RPM you now make the air flow more in this air pump and may now make power at 4000 RPM. Can you use the "air pump" everyday that runs at 4000 RPM?
My guess is no but if you race that would be a good "air pump" for that.
I can tell you that factory 300 makes power around the 1800-2000 RPM and there is no need to bring the RPM up over 2500 RPM when shifting normally.
So you do not see the need for a v2 carb then why the need to change the intake?
Again they only make a v4 intake and you may find an adapter to run the v1 carb but why as you are still pulling air thru a small v1 carb to a large flowing intake back to a small flowing head, cam, and exh system.
They (people) say just swapping the carb, intake and exhaust wakes up the motor so no need for a cam change.
I do not know how much more power I got by running the 87> EFI exh manifolds and larger 94 pipes and factory v1 carb & intake as I never drove my truck with the factory set up.
With a few easy mods it works and runs just like the factory set it up to run be it 100*+f or 20*f out as I have driven the truck at both temps and no need to make adjustments like some have to when running aftermarket carbs.
So to change just the intake and not anything else you have not gained anything other than less in the bank and trying to get it all to work together.
As said a larger carb, v2 or small v4, intake to match the carb, EFI manifolds or header and 2" pipes is a good "package" and they say works.
I would say that would run $2000 to $3000 for parts and you doing the work.
Dave ----
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