replaced my gas tank and fuel filter 2 weeks ago, so no chance of dirty gas getting to carb. gave old carb a qwik spray out out of ports and stuff while still in truck but off idle stumble was still there.

- finally gave in and replace stock tired old carb with chinee $89 usd clone and with only an idle screw adjustment and air bleed additional 1/2 turn it now idles great and slower , possibly w/o any detectable miss
AND no off idle stumble driving around neighborhood.

havent even hooked up electric choke yet and not 100% sure i got correct vacum hooked to distributor as everything is slightly different places.
-definitely dont have a Positive crankcase ventilation and some blowby was immediately visible that wasnt there before with PCV working and sucking into intake.

- theres no more vac leaks around carb shaft or carb base but just ran out of contact cleaner so intake probly still has vac leaks from before. BUT it idles and drives way better , even maybe 20 more hp as it will more than just chirp tires around a corner, but still not off the drop straight line.

met a guy near work with a 69 ford with similar drivetrain[ C6 tranny and 360 engine]. he says it starts right up after sitting 8 yrs, only started once maybe a yr ago
- he wants 1600 cdn delivered 400 km to my moms garage.
if it runs and drives and has better compression than mine , seems worth it
besides compression, what tests should i gauge this new/old drivetrain?
- oil looked like it was changed yesterday despite supposedly sitting 8 yrs

 

You’re saying yours runs great, but you want to get another one? Even though it’s an unknown at this point, and different?
The price does seem reasonable, but if you’re asking if it’s worth it, depends on what you’re trying to do.

Compression test is always important, of course, as is a visual inspection. There’s just nothing you can tell with 100% certain with an old engine, without pulling it apart to give it the full once over.
Hopefully some others have some reasonable comments. Like for example, will the engine and transmission fit in your truck? That I don’t know, but it seems like a lot of work.
And why aren’t you running a PCV valve? That would be one of the most basic systems to connect. There’s always blow by an engine. Not just once they’re worn out. The difference is the amount, not the fact that it’s there at all.

 

my 360 Fe is running better, much better but never having driven a 360 fe 76 F150 since i was 12 i dont know what great is.
-but i do know i have at least one low compression piston compared to the rest which top out at 110. normally i would think 140ish is worn out but 360s seem to be especially low compression dogs i dont know what to think
that being said i also have a driveline clunk that worries me. if its a rearend or C6, a cheap backup is helpful.
-plus the body/cab, chrome trim is in excelent condition, with only major rust on fenders. he seems to think i could resell entire body for his asking price and have a free driveline

-this new chinee carb has no pcv intake port on back of carb

 

while theres just a blank casting spot where stock PCV would hookup on autolite 2100 , on this chinee clone there is also a large threaded port around the corner 90 degrees from stock spot but unsure if this is same ported or manifold vacum as rear PCV was?
-plus how do i convert about 3/8fine thread to 3/8 pcv port?

 

It’s pretty common for replacement carburetors to have this fitting in a different location. However, those different locations were also used on different carburetors even from the factory over the years. So it’s not completely out of line for them to be there.
Simply indicates that they don’t care too much about precision/accuracy of a specific year model.

The PCV vacuum is always full manifold vacuum from a common plenum area. Ported is only for distributor vac advance. Perhaps some other things too, but only for vacuum advance that I’m aware of.
If it’s a large port, I think we can safely assume it’s full manifold vacuum.
The only large item that would be connected to the base of the carburetor would be the PCV valve. Usually …
The brake booster can go to an individual runner on the back of the intake manifold, but the PCV has to be from a common area feeding all eight cylinders.

Did the carburetor come with a barbed hose fitting that you can insert there? If not, it’s probably a common thread type that you can buy a brass fitting that should thread into that. Or even aluminum, but aluminum is typically easy to strip and break, so I’d use brass even though it’s a dissimilar metal from the carburetor itself.
often available from a local parts store, you could also search Ace Hardware or some other general type of store that might have threaded fittings.
As far as the connecting hose goes, in a pinch you can simply run longer rubber hose from the new barbed fitting in the side of the carburetor, around to the PCV valve. Assuming it’s on the opposite side side? Lots of older Ford engines had the valve on the passenger side and the elbow fitting for the return error on the drivers. But later years, typically around 71 to 73, they put the PCV valve in the drivers valve cover and the elbow and the passenger. Where is yours?
I prefer to pre-bend my own 3/8” hard line that’s typically available from auto parts stores in different lengths then attach 3/8” rubber fuel-rated hose to each end.
it just looks cleaner and more factory that way. But rubber hose does the job.
If it’s less awkward, you could probably thread a 90° hose fitting into that side of the carburetor. Assuming that it fits with the area surrounding the port.

 

NOPE no fittings came with carb and my pcv is on passenger side same as this threaded carb opening, pretty sure i have lots of vac hose left over from kit to replace all vac hoses and it will need one cuz the metal stock one angles up into th electric choke wire

is there any way of adjusting a new gas gauge sender unit?
-either my new gas tank isnt filling up totally cuz its not venting properly during fill
OR its out of whack/needs adjusting as when its supposedly FULL, gauge reads a lil over 3/4 AND it doesnt seem to run out of gas about 1/4 tank under empty
-would there be an adjust ment screw on the gauge cluster or does one have to remove sender and physically bend it up or down?

 

While there may be some adjustment of the IVR output on the back of the cluster, this will effect the fuel, oil and temp gauges equally. So you don't usually adjust that one unless all three gauges are off by the same amount.
And your particular issue, being that it's both low and high, would seem to be more of an adjustment of the sender itself.

And unless it's different from most that I've seen, the only adjustment is to tweak the different things. Bending the float arm, and/or bending the upper and lower stops. My Ford replacements bought from the dealer back in the day, read the same as the ones from the factory in my Bronco. So instead of tweaking the new ones, I simply bent, folded and mutilated (not really) my originals until they read just over full when topped off, and just under empty when they ran out of gas.
Having dual tanks let me literally run each one dry, so I knew exactly how much gas was going in, and how far until I was gulping for fumes.
Worked perfect for the next 20 years or so.

This likely only works if the rheostat (if that's the proper term for one of these?) is within spec too. With the lack of quality in today's parts, that's always a question.
If you have an ohm meter, you can check the range first before crawling under and connecting it to the vehicle.
The range should be approx. 73ohms empty and 10ohms full. Something like 9.74 to 73.8 or something strange like that. So most just quote 73-10 and done.
Check yours, and if it's in or near spec, then you can connect it to the harness, leaving it outside the tank, and turn on the key. See where the gauge needle falls and keep at it until you have it where you want.
If it's withing spec, and the gauge reads way off still, you might have to verify the wiring and the gauge are in good shape with further testing.

The initial first "further test" that I start with is to simply connect the two contacts inside the harness connector to each other. This basically grounds the gauge out, and it should peg full in a few seconds. If it does not, there is additional resistance in the circuit.
If you have two tanks, then one potential culprit is the switch on the dash. Some seem to last forever, and many seem to fail early.

Paul