I have a 1993 F150 351w 2wd auto….the ECM has been replaced and is missing the sticker? I need to replace it and cannot establish which pcm would be correct? Can you help?

 

There will also be a sticker on the driver's door windshield pillar. THAT is the one you need to determine ECU/PCM

 

I thought I included the necessary pics? Did they not show up?

 

ECM sticker

Note that I said WINDSHIELD PILLAR, not door jamb.

 

 

Any SD48B hardware will work.
actual number is F2TF-12A650-MC

 

Not necessarily true - must be for '93 F150 5.8 with E4OD with Federal emissions, and there are usually several variations of it.

Just looking it up on car-parts (dot) com, there are SEVEN possibilities!
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-CB
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-CC
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-MA
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-MB
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-MC
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-PA
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; Federal, ID F2TF-PB

Additionally, there are five more with Calif Emissions:

Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; California, ID F2TF-BSA
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; California, ID F2TF-BSB
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; California, ID F2TF-DA
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; California, ID F2TF-DB
Electronic Control Module, 8-351W (5.8L), AT, E4OD transmission, exc. Lightning; California, ID F4TF-NA

As for which one of those is X2Z2, I have no idea...

 

As a big of a PITA it is, I would trust taking out the ECU vs someone on the internet. You got to take it out anyway to replace it.

 

I posted above which one specifically came with that cab from factory.

All assumptions are that this vehicle is factory stock.
Has the engine been swapped?
Has it had a MAF swap?
If either of the two above, then the code doesn't really matter does it.
Imagine if the E4OD trans had the 1995 solenoid upgrade, then you must have the 1995 or newer EEC because of the diode change. If it has, then you will fry your pre-1994 EEC.

Ebay has them for $400 and up.
Buy it locally probably get it for $50.
Open up the case, fix the capacitors yourself under $10 and some time.

They all are for E4OD, seven of them with federal emissions.

 

Just curious, why do you need to replace the ECU?

 

well long story but out of the blue it basically started to start and then stall after a few seconds, after throwing the parts cannon at it because I didn't have the time to diagnose properly, I pulled the ECM and noticed many leaking caps and replaced it with a reman A1 Cardone from Oriely’s and same issue, Probably not the cause but I thought I should return the reman and get the correct computer to start and rule that out? the old one was definitely not good (maybe not the cause of the start/stall) but the reman may not be correct?

 

If you can wield a soldering iron, you should be able to easily replace those blown caps. There are many places in ebay that will sell you the kit of 3 capacitors for just this purpose for around $15. Or you can try to find higher quality parts, like aluminum polyester type made by a reputable company like Nichicon. You will need one of 10 micro-farad at 80 volts and two at 47 micro-farad at 20 volts, preferably with 105C rating.

Of course, if the caps spewed enough of their guts to corrode the traces on the circuit board, you will have more to repair.

 

I could have done that but I turned in the core to Oriellys and now it’s gone. The aftermarket part # is vague as to what ECM’s it replaces and the remanufactures aren't always the greatest. Thats why I want to replace it with a good used oem one.

 

Pick a local parts SD48 for cheap, and run with it.
if that doesn’t work, it’s a bad eec or you’ve got other issues.

 

good used oem is still 30-40 years old