Unfortunately the largest wrench I have in my box is 1-1/4 so did not get to tightened it this weekend. Getting new tires on Friday so will have the shop tighten it and see how it does! Will update in a few days!

 

I ended up ordering a 1 5/16" from amazon for 19.99, it will get used once or 2x a year since my socket doesn't fit on my 02 F350, I suggest you get one from HF or somewhere and check it when you do oil change, it's what I do.

 

I’ve had Blue, Red and Ford remans and all were disappointing with the winner being Ford at 40,000 miles.
Installed a PSC about 5,000 miles ago. It has bigger/better parts and is a brand new box. Don’t send your old one back to them because they don’t want it. That tells you something. Also, the box is a bit heavier than OEM. That may also tell you something. It does require GM steering fluid, however.
One thing I installed that I had instant feedback from was when I installed a Borgeson lower steering shaft. It replaces the OEM “Rag” joint that deteriorates over time with an all metal U-joint. I felt the steering tighten up (less flex). I got mine at Summit Racing. When I installed both the PSC and Borgeson, it was almost like they were meant to fit together with one’s tightening screw mating with a flat spot on the other. This threw my steering wheel off a good bit, so l had to do an alignment.
I did the alignment myself with the help of Specialty Products Company (SPC). Their Tech, Tom, was especially helpful. After inserting 0 degree camber/caster bushings (sleeves) and telling him the amount of camber/caster I was off, he was able tell me what sleeves to buy and at what position to clock them at.
I’ve had their Fastrax alignment tool with the toe measuring kit I use on my ZO6 for track days. After installing the new shims with a hair of toe-in, camber was right on the mark with 4 degrees caster.
The Ex now steers like it did when brand new. Have not had that experience for more than a decade.
I installed a Bilstein 5100 steering stabilizer. It may have helped slow down the sensitivity of the steering a tiny bit, but not much.
Good luck with your project.

 

So I got the new front tires and the shop said they tried tightening the pitman arm nut. They said it was already "very snug". It seems like there is improvement but still not as sure steering as I'd like. Perhaps I've gotten too used to more modern steering characteristics - have 2016 RAM 2500 and the Ex replaced our 2019 suburban.

 

I just drove non stop 1300 miles over 21 hours to Indiana and back, I know my steering has play, but when you're tired, and it's night it got old correcting the vehicle for so long. I feel mine has worsened for sure, it came with the red top box mess on it from the previous owner. Time for me to dive into this and find a resolution.

 

With a proper alignment that includes enough caster angle and slight toe-in (no toe-out even though the spec allows for some), the truck would track straight down the road without need for constant correction regardless of how sloppy the box was. Yeah a sloppy box would make it so you'd have to move the steering wheel further to make any turn or correction, but a sloppy steering box will not cause wander or the need for constant correction. A bad/ sloppy steering box would make driving a vehicle that has wander way more annoying for sure though.
...

 

It's gotten to where the wheel can be turned from 11-1 O'clock and there is no response in the direction of travel, for everything I've done to this vehicle thus far, I've been sort of overlooking this as I really don't want to deal with it. The drive to BTS for the transmission will be 14 hours each way, so that may be the push I need. Following "all" of the front steering linkage I recently replaced there was an alignment done, by a truck shop, don't know the numbers, but since I never told him to to deviate from what they normally would do, it probably doesn't meet the Pirate specs. Either way it's a 2 man job for me to visibly watch all the linkage move while someone else rotates the wheel back and forth with the engine running so I can get an idea.

 

I would still get a wrench and a cheater bar and do it yourself, mine was snug, but still turned a good 1/4 - 1/2 turn, and yes coming from newer rigs, they are a bit sloppier...

 

Yes, it is a 2 person job, start at the pitman arm nut... watch it really close, and if it's there, you'll see it but just a miniscule amount, the $20 investment in a wrench to tighten is money well spent IMO. I keep repeating this because I've tightened sooo many of these on our older trucks...

 

I have all sizes wrench wise below what I need, was it determined that it's a 1 5/6"? I could remove the drop bar bracket and just use a socket. From previous posts, I need to look at the rag joint too.

 

Or just ditch the rag joint all together and replace it with a borgeson shaft that has a u-joint (link below)

https://www.borgeson.com/99-07-Ford-...F250-F350.html
...

 

i was recently looking at that option, i think you were the one who posted about replacing it.

 

I tightened it about 1/4 turn (wrench and 5' pipe) - until there was a loud, violent POP - then I stopped there. It may be a bit better, but not sure yet.

 

I'm 97.456% sure it's 1-5/16"... my socket wouldn't fit on my F350 which is why I bought the $20 wrench, still haven't made the time to tighten mine 🤦‍♂️ so I can't with 100% certainty say it is.. spent Sat cutting/splitting wood for winter heat then was lazy Sunday and went over to my buddy's place to watch my Chief's go 6-0!!

 

This video claims steering issues could be result of bad front axle U-joints. Any one have this experience? Common problem?