I too thought to pay attention to the slide pins. I've had those freeze up before a long time ago. When I put the calipers on I put some CRC sythetic grease on them because there wasn't any on from whoever rebuilt this brand. When I got the caliper off today I checked to make sure the pins weren't stuck and sliding freely. I just went out checked again to see if I notice anything unusual about the contact area on the pads. Didn't see anything strange or that jumped out. I put everything back on and rebled the both front calipers and the master cylinder. When I bled both calipers there wasn't even any air bubbles at all. There was a couple tiny bubbles on the driver side caliper, that was it, but it may have been from the bleeder screw threads. After that it had a good pedal before starting and when I started up the truck it had a normal feeling pedal this time. Once I applied the brakes a few times I shut it off and got out jacked up the truck. I checked the passenger side wheel and it is totally locked up. I can't even budge it. I actually haven't been able to budge it this whole time. I went over to check the driver's side wheel and it spins freely. I got a warranty master cylinder with me, but I did not swap it out because I don't think the master cylinder is bad since only one wheel is locked. I'm thinking that the replacement caliper is bad. When I got the new replacement calipers initially I thought it was strange that one was silver and the other was gray. One didn't have any casting numbers and the other had the Bosch and Ford numbers. I think the silver one was a new casting. It actually was for the driver's side, the side that's working normal. The gray one for the passenger side had a rounded off bleeder screw so I had to replace it. It must be a bad casting. I'm going request a warranty replacement on this passenger side caliper and swap it out and see what happens.

 

I was set to try and crawl this thing to the shop if it would make it. I decided to finally remove the master cylinder with lines connected. I jacked it up with the master cylinder unbolted and the wheels spun freely. I then attempted to adjust the booster rod. It didn’t look like the factory one I guess because I had the booster replaced. I moved the adjusting nut back and then turned the end of the pushrod in a couple turns. Bolted everything back on, cranked it up, applied the brakes numerous times. Then I jacked it up and everything spun freely. I’d like to get this perfectly adjusted when I figure it out. I think factory is .095-.098in.