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I initially posted in another thread, but got side tracked with the cancer diagnosis and passing of
my brother. In that thread, I got some response on ticking noise from my 2010 4.6 3v. I now think I probably have a bad timing belt tensioner. With only 80k miles on the truck how deep should I go with the repair? I stuck a scope down the oil fill cap and it looks very clean in there from what I could tell. Full timing chains and cam phasers or could I get by with just tensioners? If I go the full replacement route, what are the trustworthy brands? RockAuto.com has lots of choices. I clearly don’t know enough about these triton engines to proceed. Any response is appreciated.
If you're in there, best to do a full timing job with motorcraft parts. Tensioners, guides, chains, phasers, crank sprocket, etc. The exception being a high flow oil pump from Melling. That is the only aftermarket part you should us.
that said, I have only replaced tensioners and guides and put it all back together. I strongly don't recommend that but I didn't have many options at the time.
there complete Motorcraft kits from sites. you'll have to price it out. I got mine from Tasca Parts. Make sure you don't buy counterfeit parts.
only one way! the right way,CHANGE everything when in there, yes it's costly yet more so if a bad made part fails , we use both melling and cloyes with melling being our choice , either way we've never had a issue as both are good quality parts
Thank you for taking time to answer. Not surprised about full replacement recommendation. If I get something substandard, I know I’ll regret it later, so I do want quality parts. I’ve heard recommendations about using motorcraft phasers. So I guess I’ll look around for full Motorcraft kits. I’ll check the local dealer also, because sometimes they have a better price. It looks like it could be an expensive repair, but beats paying others to do it, not to mention saving on truck payments.
Last edited by unibody62; Aug 28, 2024 at 02:46 PM.
Reason: Thanks
we've found to many times the phasers are bad also,which is why we insist on changing everything , simply makes no sense to go cheap than have what us master techs call a comeback happen , yes very costly your looking at $900.00 in parts alone the way we do it, plus gaskets and oil https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...qUhnB6BDvLBNCw
yes very costly your looking at $900.00 in parts alone the way we do it, plus gaskets and oil
No gasket in the kits, I’ll need to get separate I guess. I noticed some of the kits include a water pump also. Do you suppose that’s advisable to do also?
sorry to keep asking question, but the oil pump is in the front also or is it in the pan like my old school rides?
As CharlieG mentioned, it is under the timing cover & "can" be replaced without removing the oil pan. It sucks, but can be done. BUT..... With these engines & the lack of maintenance previous owners do, there is a high likely hood that some of your guides (current or past ones) have come apart & are in the pan + pickup. When I had to do mine, I was VERY happy I bought the oil pan gasket so I could drop the pan. There were lots of plastic parts down there & in the pickup. Pieces found in the pan & pickup
Another "side quest" while doing this job is to check the roller followers & tensioners. If you watch some of the videos FordTechMakuloco has you will see him demonstrate what happens when the bearings go on the followers. He also shows how the tensioners won't "pump up" & keep proper pressure under the follower. I just bought all the FoMoCo parts to replace while I was in there since you could hear some valve train noise in there. I was VERY happy again that I did as there were several followers & tensioners that had failed. NOTE: If you don't replace them, DO NOT move parts around. Put them right back where you found them.
Also, ditto on all Motorcraft parts + Melling oil pump
I would also recommend, if you are replacing the water pump at this time (good idea), I pulled the pump BEFORE you get the cover off. It keeps the coolant out of the oil pan. Yes you should be changing the oil during this anyway, but the local collection centers won't take oil with coolant in it.
As CharlieG mentioned, it is under the timing cover & "can" be replaced without removing the oil pan. It sucks, but can be done. BUT..... With these engines & the lack of maintenance previous owners do, there is a high likely hood that some of your guides (current or past ones) have come apart & are in the pan + pickup. When I had to do mine, I was VERY happy I bought the oil pan gasket so I could drop the pan. There were lots of plastic parts down there & in the pickup. Pieces found in the pan & pickup
Another "side quest" while doing this job is to check the roller followers & tensioners. If you watch some of the videos FordTechMakuloco has you will see him demonstrate what happens when the bearings go on the followers. He also shows how the tensioners won't "pump up" & keep proper pressure under the follower. I just bought all the FoMoCo parts to replace while I was in there since you could hear some valve train noise in there. I was VERY happy again that I did as there were several followers & tensioners that had failed. NOTE: If you don't replace them, DO NOT move parts around. Put them right back where you found them.
Also, ditto on all Motorcraft parts + Melling oil pump
I would also recommend, if you are replacing the water pump at this time (good idea), I pulled the pump BEFORE you get the cover off. It keeps the coolant out of the oil pan. Yes you should be changing the oil during this anyway, but the local collection centers won't take oil with coolant in it.
Great info. I watched many of FordTechMakuloco videos, but haven’t watched any in the followers. I watched parts of the timing chain series and noticed how he was checking for loose bearings on the followers. I’ve had this truck since 2012 and alway do proper maintenance and use quality products, so I don’t anticipate any additional worn parts, but who knows. It doesn’t seem like that much more trouble to drop the pan, unless of course the engine has to be lifted. You hinted that it might be easier to do the oil pump with the pan off. I was wondering about doing the water pump also, might be a good time. The parts list just keeps getting longer and I might need to get some new tools also to make the job easier, but I always say that you can’t have too many tools, right?
With regards to the followers, I wasn't sure what to expect either so I thought I would have more than needed.
Not really since I ended up using it all. I suppose I could have just left the valve train alone & lived with the ticking & loss of performance but I'm just not wired that way.
I didn't make any videos of the followers I pulled since they were VERY similar condition to FTML's video. (and I don't really do the whole make videos of myself thing) The needle bearings were in various conditions. Some seemed ok while others went from "that's a bit loose" to "holly crap". I did mine around 40k miles ago so it's been a few years & at the time all the followers & tensioners (old school engines these were the rockers & lifters) were not too expensive so I just added them to the list.
the pile-o-parts & special tools
As for the oil pump: I will also defer to the video FTML has on replacing it with the Melling HV. The 2 small bolts that attach the pickup tube to the bottom of the pump are a mixed bag. They point down at an angle & REALLY want to fall in the pan. You can avoid this with some stuffed rags but that doesn't help you with trying to get them back in. You really want to use a ratcheting box wrench on both & the driver's side one is "easier" to get in & out. The passenger's side bolt is "ok" to get out but a SUPER PITA to get back in without cross threading into the aluminum. I kind of did it both ways with the pan on & off. I tried to avoid dropping the pan but after I got the pump in I did some side by side comparisons of the new & old guides. (should have done that before putting the pump in...) There were A LOT of missing pieces as you saw so it was time to drop the pan & drop the pickup tube. Putting it back in after cleaning out the pan & pickup was easy compared to when the pan was on. My truck is 4x4 & even with that dropping the pan wasn't all that difficult.
view from below with the pan off fully installed
Water Pump: As you can see above, there is a new one in there. I would recommend doing it at the same time. Note to self...... Be VERY careful putting the new pump in & slowly work the o-ring gasket into the hole. Or go out to the parts store & get a 2nd one if you are a meat-head like me & you nicked the edge putting it in. It is a VERY tight fit.
Thank you. I’m not ready to do this, but I’ll want to get to it before the winter sets in. I’ve got other summer transportation, so it’s not an emergency. I do some plowing in the winter months so hopefully it will get done. Parts to order, online reading to do and videos to watch in the meantime to prepare.
