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nope,
just use a Clamp On ammeter, and test each wire from the batteries.
no need to remove the terminals.
when you find a wire with too much draw on it, follow it to where it splits up, and test each leg off of the split...
in this pix, the ammeter is clamped around the wire from the Alternator positive post, going back to the wiring harness inside the cab.
in this pix, it is measuring the Starter Inrush Current,
the first few milli-seconds, while starter Armature is dead stopped, it is a Dead short, until it starts to turn the flywheel.
and yes, that is 820 Amps for a few milli-seconds.
the 1st picture is a smaller ammeter, 200 amps max.
the 2nd picture can measure 1,000 amps max.
If no clamp meter you can just hook a regular multimeter in series between the passenger battery + and the positive cable. That where the power feed to the entire truck starts. Be sure to double check your meter test lead connections. a lot of meters require you to move the common lead to a different plug. If you don't it will likely blow the meter, sometimes violently. As in sparks and smoke with occasional shrapnel.
Just pull fuses and put them back until the draw drops off. That gets you a circuit to be looking at. The factory head unit is a common source and the alternator can do it too.
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