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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Rear Wheel Clunk

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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 09:55 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
True but I think I got them from AZ down the street so how good could the be
I got them maybe 6 or 7 years ago but only on the road 5 years.

I had a new wheel cly leak just sitting as I was rebuilding the truck and they were name brand.
I changed them both out for a different brand, no leaks so far.
Dave ----
Where does AZ get drums for our trucks? I have a sense that they are probably made overseas. That means they could be Jun Kee, Wok Hom, or Fling Dung brands. If you're lucky maybe get some NOS?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2024 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
The sleeve adjusts pre-load on the pinion bearings.
You adjust where the pinion rides on the ring gear with shims on the pinion shaft.
To adjust the back lash you adjust the carrier / ring gear left or right with shims. The carrier shims also adjust preload on the carrier bearings.
Oh it is a lot of fun setting up axle gears

If you turn 1 side do both.
That drum could be moving the shoes in and out of backing plate grooves
Dave ----
Dave, remind me why you'd want to turn both drums if only one side needs it?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 08:24 AM
  #18  
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My guess is the same reason you don't just replace pads on one side.
I could be wrong. There's always a first time.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 09:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Starliner1955
My guess is the same reason you don't just replace pads on one side.
I could be wrong. There's always a first time.
Yes same reason.

I thought I posted why
Even in the rear you get one side grabbing differently and it can cause a pull when braking.
If you are doing anything on a axle with brakes do both sides to keep it the same.

Unless you need to get out of the way of a land slide or flash flood, then slap it together and make hast!
Dave ----
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 01:07 PM
  #20  
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I would only turn drums that need it. The rear brakes are adjustable so that doesn't come into play. The only difference might be in more friction on one side, but if there's that much difference you'd be turning both drums. If one drum is still smooth why turn it?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2024 | 01:49 PM
  #21  
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Meh, I am thinking that if one drum has a flat spot from sittin', the other one is likely not perfect.
plus if I make one side better, the other side will show it's weakness.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 01:33 PM
  #22  
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Just saying, these are your brakes we're talking about. I think you want things done right the first time. The second time...maybe to late.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 02:21 PM
  #23  
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Agreed. Both sides or nothing.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 02:59 PM
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Funny story, that's something my son taught me when he was working at Advance Auto Parts before collage. I'm sure it was part of corporate sales training. But, he's also the 13y/o that said to me once, "Dad, it's not about what you need, it's about what you want".
 
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Old Aug 26, 2024 | 07:03 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
Funny story, that's something my son taught me when he was working at Advance Auto Parts before collage. I'm sure it was part of corporate sales training. But, he's also the 13y/o that said to me once, "Dad, it's not about what you need, it's about what you want".
. . . . and can afford!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 08:39 PM
  #26  
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Clunk Resolved

It turns out that the brake drums were out of round.
A new pair from Rock for $80 bucks fixed the clunk.
The truck was sitting for a few years before I got it.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 10:03 PM
  #27  
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Drums can go out of round from excessive braking heat. Do you have an automatic transmission and live in a mountainous area? They can go out of round from just hard use. I'm not sure just parked will put them out of round. Glad you got it fixed!
 
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Old Aug 29, 2024 | 10:27 PM
  #28  
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Hmm, well, it spent most of it's life in Nevada.
now, on the East Coast, i don't think it has had them heating up.
maybe a flat spot might batter describe it.
I'm not sure, since the shop used generic oval as the term a O'Reillys.

Off-topic, do you think a transfer case **** from a 1991 will fit my clunker? I know that the pattern isn't exact, but it is just fitment I care about. There seems to be more out there from 91 up.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 06:57 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Starliner1955
Hmm, well, it spent most of it's life in Nevada.
now, on the East Coast, i don't think it has had them heating up.
maybe a flat spot might batter describe it.
I'm not sure, since the shop used generic oval as the term a O'Reillys.

Off-topic, do you think a transfer case **** from a 1991 will fit my clunker? I know that the pattern isn't exact, but it is just fitment I care about. There seems to be more out there from 91 up.
Flat spot might be caused by dropping the drum. They are pretty robust but if dropped far enough?

If you're asking about the shifter **** some are threaded and some splined held on with epoxy. If shopping used try to stay with the same transfer case. Might find a **** on eBay?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2024 | 12:47 PM
  #30  
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If yours is splined and you find one that is threaded just just run a tap down on the splines and thread on the new ****.
My NP435 was splined but did not have a **** but the T18 **** was threaded but a mess.
I fixed the **** by filling it with JB Weld and let it harden really good.
I drilled & tapped the **** for the threads I tapped the NP435 stick to.
The **** was not finished so I put a bolt with the head cut off and chucked it up in my drill press.
With it spinning I was able to dress it with sand paper, a coat of paint and was good a new.

BTW there are web sites with different shift ***** just Google it
Dave ----
 
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