When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Arrived home this morning after a 30 mile run to the dumps. After parking the truck on the side of my house as I usually do, I dod that glance under the motor for possible leaks prior to walking in the house. Sure as hell I noticed oil dripping. Noticed the bottom of my pan soaked leading up to the dipstick. So I wiped everything up and restarted it and noticed a tiny dribble. Someone may have repaired this before due to the gray RTV under the dipstick nut. I ordered the repair kit with o rings from pro source diesel. If that does not work I will have to resort to the expensive replacement kit and take that chance dropping the inner housing in the pan. Would hate to fork over $300 from sticky diesel even though it's cool and shiny. Any other good quality options?
Arrived home this morning after a 30 mile run to the dumps. After parking the truck on the side of my house as I usually do, I dod that glance under the motor for possible leaks prior to walking in the house. Sure as hell I noticed oil dripping. Noticed the bottom of my pan soaked leading up to the dipstick. So I wiped everything up and restarted it and noticed a tiny dribble. Someone may have repaired this before due to the gray RTV under the dipstick nut. I ordered the repair kit with o rings from pro source diesel. If that does not work I will have to resort to the expensive replacement kit and take that chance dropping the inner housing in the pan. Would hate to fork over $300 from sticky diesel even though it's cool and shiny. Any other good quality options?
Dip stick leaks strikes again. I run the nugget. Even after I yanked the engine, for $300 ill run that boy forever. They have weld in replacements but I myself wouldn't do that unless the engine is out. I know there are some significantly less expensive versions of the golden nugget on ebay.
Me, no.
Did the Strictly Diesel adapter later on with Right Stuff added because pass side of oil pan was warped. Still later on when oil pan silicone leaked really bad had to pull the pan. Found that the crank had hit the inside piece pretty hard, but no damages to oil pan, but my pan had rust holes developing so got a new Spectra oil pan.
Had to do cab mounts anyway so I jacked up the cab like the video then did the Moroso pan gasket and "golden nugget" Strictly Diesel oil tube unit.
And the oil cooler seals. And the engine and trans mounts. And the battery cables and starter.
It never ends this ****.
IF you choose to do the pan with engine still in, soak the cab mount nuts with penetrant 2-3 days before. Jack the cab up at the back with 2 2x4s next to rear mounts, 2 2x4s at trans mount & 2 2x4s at engine mounts. 4 2x4s at front core support mounts. Those core support mounts you'll have to replace. Leave the middle & rear cab bolts in place so the cab doesn't drift back to the bed.
The thought of going through the process of having to drop the pan is overwhelming.
I hope when I replace the o-rings the leak will be fixed. Just seeing RTV behind the locknut leaves me to believe someone has already struggled fixing this leak once before.
The thought of going through the process of having to drop the pan is overwhelming.
I hope when I replace the o-rings the leak will be fixed. Just seeing RTV behind the locknut leaves me to believe someone has already struggled fixing this leak once before.
The outer ring gets cranked down to try and tighten up the seal and bends the flange inside the oil pan when in all actuality if they were to not crank it down and do the reseal with a new O ring the chances of getting a proper seal are a lot better. I know when I dug mine out of the oil pan you could tell it had been cranked on.
IIRC, I used a tight fitting rifle bore brush and cleaning rod section to hold the inside piece from falling into the pan when doing the o-ring & sealant.
Made cleaning the outside with nut removed possible & fish out the old o-ring easier.
Had same thing happen to my 96 XLT had to temporarily clean & seal it up with Right Stuff.
If you get it down below the baffle like the instructions say it will never be an issue like that. Mine is in there from heck idk,9 years ago maybe. It has been to long to even remember.
If you get it down below the baffle like the instructions say it will never be an issue like that. Mine is in there from heck idk,9 years ago maybe. It has been to long to even remember.
When it first got really bad the lock nut had loosened so much that the nut was off the thread. Either vibration from the 1400+ mile trip to So Cal, or sabotage from a sneaky pos up in MT. That pos has been known to loosen lug nuts, loosen oil drain plugs, and more. Just plain evil.
There had been so much oil lost on the road that I was lucky to have made it back from the dentist down there.
I had to temp fix the nut back on and seal it up with Right Stuff as that was what was available within walking distance, AND, do the work lying in the gutter on a busy street.
Same situation when I finally put in the "golden nugget". In the street lying in the gutter.
Edit: when the pan finally came off it had made its way under the baffle, and yes, I read instructions.
Opinions please. I pulled the oring off the dipstick base and it was swollen. There is a layer of RTV coating behind the oring with an impression of the oring. Cleaning that RTV off will be very tedious and difficult considering access and not sure if I could get all of it. Or should I try leaving it and add the new oring over it. ?
That pos has been known to loosen lug nuts, loosen oil drain plugs, and more. Just plain evil.