5.8L transmission upgrades
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: London Ontario Canada
5.8L transmission upgrades
Hey guys,
new here just looking for some answers. I have a 1994 f150 XLT 5.8L RWD, I’m looking for some transmission upgrades. I know the f350s come with a 5speed manual, and if i have to go that way I’m cool with it. My question is, is there a a tranny with more gears auto I can find? A newer 4 speed with OD?, not the 3 speed OD it already has. Just looking for something to give it some more gears, make it a lil quicker and tow better if I can.
also any tips on engine mods is greatly appreciated, im not looking to make it a race rocket but I have a new 602 cam for it and lifters gonna put in this winter, long tubes, and some minor other stuff.
thanks!
new here just looking for some answers. I have a 1994 f150 XLT 5.8L RWD, I’m looking for some transmission upgrades. I know the f350s come with a 5speed manual, and if i have to go that way I’m cool with it. My question is, is there a a tranny with more gears auto I can find? A newer 4 speed with OD?, not the 3 speed OD it already has. Just looking for something to give it some more gears, make it a lil quicker and tow better if I can.
also any tips on engine mods is greatly appreciated, im not looking to make it a race rocket but I have a new 602 cam for it and lifters gonna put in this winter, long tubes, and some minor other stuff.
thanks!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
What transmission do you have now? The tag on the door jam will tell you. Most of these trucks came with the 'e' code E4OD auto transmission which is a 4 speed with overdrive and lock up torque converter. Very few came with the c6 transmission which is the 3 speed automatic transmission with no overdrive and no lockup torque converter.
Do you have the 'od cancel' button on the end of your shifter? If you do, you have the E4OD transmission.
Do you have the 'od cancel' button on the end of your shifter? If you do, you have the E4OD transmission.
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: London Ontario Canada
What transmission do you have now? The tag on the door jam will tell you. Most of these trucks came with the 'e' code E4OD auto transmission which is a 4 speed with overdrive and lock up torque converter. Very few came with the c6 transmission which is the 3 speed automatic transmission with no overdrive and no lockup torque converter.
Do you have the 'od cancel' button on the end of your shifter? If you do, you have the E4OD transmission.
Do you have the 'od cancel' button on the end of your shifter? If you do, you have the E4OD transmission.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 1,030
If I could do my transmission upgrade all over again, I would look into the 6R80. More gears and should handle all you are going to throw at it. Probably cost more than what I did to my E4OD, but I I believe I think I would like it better.
I still might just swap it out anyway. We shall see.
I still might just swap it out anyway. We shall see.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,198
From: Mojave, Ca
If I could do my transmission upgrade all over again, I would look into the 6R80. More gears and should handle all you are going to throw at it. Probably cost more than what I did to my E4OD, but I I believe I think I would like it better.
I still might just swap it out anyway. We shall see.
I still might just swap it out anyway. We shall see.
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: London Ontario Canada
If I could do my transmission upgrade all over again, I would look into the 6R80. More gears and should handle all you are going to throw at it. Probably cost more than what I did to my E4OD, but I I believe I think I would like it better.
I still might just swap it out anyway. We shall see.
I still might just swap it out anyway. We shall see.
what could I pull the 6R80 out of? Is it a newer vehicle? And what kind of computer mods do I need to do? I work for LKQ and have our entire North American inventory at my disposal, was gonna just upgrade to the 5 speed but I wanna make sure I checked all avenues first before I decide 100% and talk to all the people that have done this or atleast know better then me.
again appreciate the time guys! Enjoy the nice driving weather!
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FTE Legend
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Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 5
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From: London Ontario Canada
What axle ratio does it have? Depending on tire size 3.73 to 4.10 gears are much better for this type of use.
What is this "602 cam" ? Your engine has a factory roller cam.so it would a bad idea to go backwords to a flat tappet cam, and the EFI systen won't tolerate an agressive cam profile, anything that isn't specifically designed to be EFI friendly is going to cause problems.
What is this "602 cam" ? Your engine has a factory roller cam.so it would a bad idea to go backwords to a flat tappet cam, and the EFI systen won't tolerate an agressive cam profile, anything that isn't specifically designed to be EFI friendly is going to cause problems.
hey,
yea I have a set of 4.10’s I was thinking about putting in, just wanna to possibly do some highway with it lol so that was my last thing I was gonna do. Had them kicking around from my mustang. The 3.73 would it give me a noticeable diff?
the Cam I got is this
Competition Cams GK35-602-8 BIG ***** THUMPR 243/257 HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAM GK-KIT FOR FORD 351W
SKU:COMGK35-602-8Street/ strip, needs 9.5:1 compression, 2800+ stall, intake, gears and headers, very rough idle.Camshaft/lifter/gear drive kit. Precision machined. Heat treated billet steel gears. 3-way crank sprocket. 4 deg. maximum advance or retard. Ready to install kit includes bolts and lock plates. Perfect addition for street performance vehicles. 1 year limited warranty.
- Camshaft/Lifter/Gear Drive Kit
- Precision Machined
- Heat treated Billet Steel Gears
- 3-Way Crank Sprocket
- 4 deg. Maximum Advance Or Retard
- Ready To Install Kit Incl. Bolts And Lock Plates
- Perfect Addition For Street Performance Vehicles
- 1 Year Limited Warranty
pretty much what I see guys dropping in some older drag cars, I’ve talked to a group of guys who come from Michigan to here in Ontario every year and dropped a couple 351w’s in a few pintos and that’s what they’ve been using. Now mind you these cars are carbed with no computer. His 93 f150 XLT has this cam and running with no carb so figured I could try the same, if I’m wrong, I take no shame in learning and hearing from everyone. Worst case it’s just my time when I put it in and I’ll take it back out no big deal
thanks again!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
OMG!!! That cam has more duration at 0.050" than the factory cam has seat to seat.
The stock EFi computer(which also controls your transmission) depends on a strong and stable vacuum signal to provide fueling. Vacuum will be so low with this cam the computer will think the motor is under load just idling, how do you feel about getting 5-6 mpg?
That cam has so much duration dynamic compression would drop to 6:1 = no low rpm power. This is why they recommend a minumum 9.5 static CR and a high stall converter.
The stock heads don't flow well enough to make more than 275hp no matter what cam is used, and they become a bottleneck beyond about 4000rpm on this displacement.
So you're going to end up with a motor that drinks fuel and makes less power than stock, but it'll sound bitchin.
This is also a retrofit cam designed for non roller blocks, but you have a roller block so this combo will need custom pushrods.
The valve lift generated will also bind the exhaust springs on the stock heads and may do the same with the intakes, The intake side can take 0.512" lift but only just, the exhaust not even that much.
The stock EFi computer(which also controls your transmission) depends on a strong and stable vacuum signal to provide fueling. Vacuum will be so low with this cam the computer will think the motor is under load just idling, how do you feel about getting 5-6 mpg?
That cam has so much duration dynamic compression would drop to 6:1 = no low rpm power. This is why they recommend a minumum 9.5 static CR and a high stall converter.
The stock heads don't flow well enough to make more than 275hp no matter what cam is used, and they become a bottleneck beyond about 4000rpm on this displacement.
So you're going to end up with a motor that drinks fuel and makes less power than stock, but it'll sound bitchin.
This is also a retrofit cam designed for non roller blocks, but you have a roller block so this combo will need custom pushrods.
The valve lift generated will also bind the exhaust springs on the stock heads and may do the same with the intakes, The intake side can take 0.512" lift but only just, the exhaust not even that much.
Tuned
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 303
Likes: 150
As already stated, that is more of a drag cam. You'll need to run more gear and a higher stall converter. The heavier the vehicle the more gear and stall needed. If this is a street truck you you won't like it one bit. Besides, that's a retrofit cam for use in older blocks that don't have provisions for roller cams.
Truck cams are usually considered to be something that starts developing power off idle or not that long after.
I'm in the middle of debating a trans swap too. Got an E4OD and I'm looking at a 6L80e. Nice low first gear. Needs an aftermarket controller though and a bell housing adapter. Pricey. Your only option is a manual if you want more forward speeds without spending stupid amounts of money.
Truck cams are usually considered to be something that starts developing power off idle or not that long after.
I'm in the middle of debating a trans swap too. Got an E4OD and I'm looking at a 6L80e. Nice low first gear. Needs an aftermarket controller though and a bell housing adapter. Pricey. Your only option is a manual if you want more forward speeds without spending stupid amounts of money.
Thread Starter
|
5th Gear
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: London Ontario Canada
OMG!!! That cam has more duration at 0.050" than the factory cam has seat to seat.
The stock EFi computer(which also controls your transmission) depends on a strong and stable vacuum signal to provide fueling. Vacuum will be so low with this cam the computer will think the motor is under load just idling, how do you feel about getting 5-6 mpg?
That cam has so much duration dynamic compression would drop to 6:1 = no low rpm power. This is why they recommend a minumum 9.5 static CR and a high stall converter.
The stock heads don't flow well enough to make more than 275hp no matter what cam is used, and they become a bottleneck beyond about 4000rpm on this displacement.
So you're going to end up with a motor that drinks fuel and makes less power than stock, but it'll sound bitchin.
This is also a retrofit cam designed for non roller blocks, but you have a roller block so this combo will need custom pushrods.
The valve lift generated will also bind the exhaust springs on the stock heads and may do the same with the intakes, The intake side can take 0.512" lift but only just, the exhaust not even that much.
The stock EFi computer(which also controls your transmission) depends on a strong and stable vacuum signal to provide fueling. Vacuum will be so low with this cam the computer will think the motor is under load just idling, how do you feel about getting 5-6 mpg?
That cam has so much duration dynamic compression would drop to 6:1 = no low rpm power. This is why they recommend a minumum 9.5 static CR and a high stall converter.
The stock heads don't flow well enough to make more than 275hp no matter what cam is used, and they become a bottleneck beyond about 4000rpm on this displacement.
So you're going to end up with a motor that drinks fuel and makes less power than stock, but it'll sound bitchin.
This is also a retrofit cam designed for non roller blocks, but you have a roller block so this combo will need custom pushrods.
The valve lift generated will also bind the exhaust springs on the stock heads and may do the same with the intakes, The intake side can take 0.512" lift but only just, the exhaust not even that much.
do you have any recommendations on cams? Something that sounds great but gives it some extra hp? Or should I keep it stock?
for the 6l80e controller and bell housing tho dosnt look stupid exspensive thru my work, is the wiring and computer a pain to get done? As that’s something I don’t think I can do in house 😅
thanks again!
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,840
Likes: 2,437
Hey guys,
new here just looking for some answers. I have a 1994 f150 XLT 5.8L RWD, I’m looking for some transmission upgrades. I know the f350s come with a 5speed manual, and if i have to go that way I’m cool with it. My question is, is there a a tranny with more gears auto I can find? A newer 4 speed with OD?, not the 3 speed OD it already has. Just looking for something to give it some more gears, make it a lil quicker and tow better if I can.
also any tips on engine mods is greatly appreciated, im not looking to make it a race rocket but I have a new 602 cam for it and lifters gonna put in this winter, long tubes, and some minor other stuff.
new here just looking for some answers. I have a 1994 f150 XLT 5.8L RWD, I’m looking for some transmission upgrades. I know the f350s come with a 5speed manual, and if i have to go that way I’m cool with it. My question is, is there a a tranny with more gears auto I can find? A newer 4 speed with OD?, not the 3 speed OD it already has. Just looking for something to give it some more gears, make it a lil quicker and tow better if I can.
also any tips on engine mods is greatly appreciated, im not looking to make it a race rocket but I have a new 602 cam for it and lifters gonna put in this winter, long tubes, and some minor other stuff.
Why do you need more forward gears? This has already been covered but every forward gear is counted - there is no such thing as a 3 speed automatic with overdrive. I don’t believe you answered the question concerning what gear ratio is in the axles? Lower gears (4.10) would help get the truck started and not affect it on the highway. If might actually help keep the transmission from downshifting so often.
That engine combination you mentioned will make the truck almost undriveable.
….I'm in the middle of debating a trans swap too. Got an E4OD and I'm looking at a 6L80e. Nice low first gear. Needs an aftermarket controller though and a bell housing adapter. Pricey. Your only option is a manual if you want more forward speeds without spending stupid amounts of money.
and the 6R80
Other than a lower first gear I see no reason to make that swap. Overdrive is almost exactly the same and since you have an E4OD the engine computer also controls the transmission.
Tuned
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 303
Likes: 150
I'm trying to have my cake and eat it too. Don't want the change the final drive ratio at highway speeds. I've even been looking at the 10R80. US Shift is developing a controller for it, but they've been at it for years now. Ultimately I may very well be over thinking this and end up keeping the E4OD. Certainly would be cheaper.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,826
Likes: 1,030
Yes, the 6R80 has a lower first gear, but the closer spacing gears is also a bonus. A modulated converter is also better than the on/off version the E4OD has. The stronger the converter, the harsher the engagement. Some people might like it, but I find it annoying. I only suspect that the 6R80 is much more sophisticated.
You need a controller and there are a couple out there. US Shift seems to be the main one. US Shift also is developing one for the 10R80 as mentioned above, but that has been mentioned several years. If/when they get this available for the public, I certainly don't want to be the first to purchase one.
I suspect that if you work for LKQ, you can get a 6R80 cheaper than the control unit needed to make it work. Don't forget, you need a way to bolt it up too. Driveshaft modifications would also be on that list of things to do.
You need a controller and there are a couple out there. US Shift seems to be the main one. US Shift also is developing one for the 10R80 as mentioned above, but that has been mentioned several years. If/when they get this available for the public, I certainly don't want to be the first to purchase one.
I suspect that if you work for LKQ, you can get a 6R80 cheaper than the control unit needed to make it work. Don't forget, you need a way to bolt it up too. Driveshaft modifications would also be on that list of things to do.