When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm a long term user of Amsoil products but my question is this is a new engine build. I took a 302 and stroked it to a 331. Compression will be about 10:1. I live in Wisconsin so its doesn't get much above 90 but it does get below zero. Any thought on proper weight for a good Amsoil synthetic to run? old vehicles always were 10W30 or 10W40 around here and any new vehicle is now a 5W or 0W/20.
Newer vehicles using the thinner 0W-xx and 5W-xx oils are generally built tighter and some oils are specified for fuel mileage concerns as thinner flows easier.
In an older engine build, I'd use 10W-xx oils fore break in.
Last time I checked, (40 years ago) amsoil wasn't good for breaking in engines. It lubricated too well and wouldn't let the valves and rings seat properly.
I am having a Hi Output (300+ HP) 4.9L six Built by an engine builder I have used for decades. If an engine is using flat, as in non roller lifters' he uses Lucas hot rod 20W50 oil for break in and suggests running that for the life of the engine. Lucas Hot Rod oil has 3000PPM of Zinc. Modern engines running 5w30 or 0w30 are running with bearing tolerances in the 1-2 Thou range where as earlier engines ran bearing clearances in the 4-7 Thou range. Modern synthetics will indeed prevent proper ring and valve seating if used too early in the life of an engine. I had a roller rocker 5.0L engine that he built for me and the recommendation was to run mineral oil for the first six thousand miles and "Drive it like you store it" from day one.
I just did a 289. I used Penzzoil Platinum 10w30 and yes on the zinc. I used an additive, after break in use it on the next oil change as well. Will save your cam from failure especially hydraulic flat tappet
Just my thoughts, Motorcraft synthetic blend has sufficient zinc for our old school engines. I run it in my 460 and my ecoboost. I agree with running a 30wt oil with additive in a freshly rebuilt flat tappet engine. Also don't baby it during break-in!
I use Valvoline VR1 because it's intended to be used in flat tappet engines and it's easy to find, I use it in roller cam retrofits as well because it's great oil.
If you want to use Amsoil AFTER the break in they make a classic car oil with zinc.