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This might be a subject that has been covered but im looking more in depth... my truck came factory with a 330 2v, I just picked up a 391 4v and other than more cubes and more power what is the difference between them?
the 330 came out of a 1968 N700 and the 391 came out of a 1978 F800. According to the VIN the 391 is an XD engine. Do these come with the big forged crank like the older engines?
Also on another note, the 391 had air brakes where the N700 has hydraulic brakes. Is it possible to make the air system work just for trailers with air brakes? I dont want to swap axles into the N700 due to the fact that I have axles from an 83 F700 with hydraulic brakes and 10 lug Budd wheels that will be installed under the N700.
Another note, I have been gathering parts and gaskets to redo the heads on the 330. I have a set of ARP head bolts for a 390, are the head bolts the same from an FE engine to an FT or XD?
It depends on your 330. What is the 4th character of the VIN?
An MD will have certain items and balance different from all the other FT engines.
An HD will be pretty much the same.
All FTs mount the same way.
I can't find anything discussing crankshafts on XD models. If they went with the FE crank, the front cover would need a bushing and the flywheel would need a different balance. It's probably safe to assume they are forged cranks.
As to an air system for trailers, that might be possible but it seems like a tricky system which would require a quickness and dexterity in application that is missing in most people at the moment when it is needed most.
An '83 F700 might have the expensive and fussy Lucas Girling brakes.
XD's are a more refined version of the FT used between '75-'78. 330 came in both MD and HD in '68, and are different. The 330 MD has the smaller distributor and FE type water pump, 330 HD has the larger distributor and different style water pump.
According to the vin, the 330 is an hd
the 83 DOES NOT have the Lucas Girling brakes, i made sure of that before i made the decision on the axles, not to mention the diesel gearing so running 60 to 65 down the road ot won't be screaming.
on the head bolts on my 361, I used an ARP set for an FE and found that there is 1 (if I remember correctly) on each head that is a slightly different length and had to buy a package of 5 bolts by size from Summit racing to get a complete set.
The center head bolt in the bottom row is longer than the other 4 short bolts
Sell the ARP’s and recup some of your money
unless a turbo or super charger is planed the stock bolts are fine
Best to just remove the air compressor and plug the oil and coolant lines
Your N doesn’t have air tanks, plumbing or calving to operate a air brake system for the truck or a trailer
You could mount and plumb in a air tank or two just to have a air supply for tools, air seat, air horn or even air suspension, but plumbing in the primary and secondary systems with appropriate valving can get pretty complicated
If I went to that much trouble the truck would get air brake axles as well
The center head bolt in the bottom row is longer than the other 4 short bolts
Sell the ARP’s and recoup some of your money
unless a turbo or super charger is planed the stock bolts are fine What is the cost of new headbolts?
Best to just remove the air compressor and plug the oil and coolant lines
Your N doesn’t have air tanks, plumbing or calving to operate a air brake system for the truck or a trailer This compressor doesn't have coolant lines
You could mount and plumb in a air tank or two just to have a air supply for tools, air seat, air horn or even air suspension, but plumbing in the primary and secondary systems with appropriate valving can get pretty complicated
If I went to that much trouble the truck would get air brake axles as well
I do like the idea of air suspension but not that I think of it I could always add in an air valve to release the trailer brakes to move the trailer around the yard.
Are you planning on a engine rebuild, these engines don’t have those throw away torque to yield head bolts, I’ve reused those bolts many times, I would never swap out head bolts on a running FT engine just to put ARP’s in
I don’t think I mentioned cooling lines on the air compressor, however most do
Weather air cooled or water cooled all of those compressors had oil supply lines connected to the oil filter adapter and drain lines connected to a fitting in the lower right side of the block
Are you planning on a engine rebuild, these engines don’t have those throw away torque to yield head bolts, I’ve reused those bolts many times, I would never swap out head bolts on a running FT engine just to put ARP’s in
I don’t think I mentioned cooling lines on the air compressor, however most do
Weather air cooled or water cooled all of those compressors had oil supply lines connected to the oil filter adapter and drain lines connected to a fitting in the lower right side of the block
Best to just remove the air compressor and plug the oil and coolant lines Your N doesn’t have air tanks, plumbing or calving to operate a air brake system for the truck or a trailer
I don't plan to rebuild it but I am going to pull it apart to check heads and cylinder bore wear, I also broke a head bolt on the 330 engine that came out of the 68. So I would need at least one new head bolt. for that engine. the ARP head bolts are only $90, I even sprung for the ARP flywheel bolts because again they are cheap. I do plan to turbo this engine in the future as well as adding Holley EFI to it. but will be low boost just to add a little power, don't need 400 hp, but would be nice to make around 250 hp and possibly in the 500 ft lbs of torque depending on the size of the turbo.
The FT engines don't spin up, the pistons are too heavy, so if using stock rotating parts you're limited to . . . 3600-ish if you want the pistons & rods to last. So reaching for gains using the OEM parts + turbo is tough.
EFI is nice. At least at first. Five years down the road, ??? All the stock stuff can be fixed, the EFI stuff . . . maybe.
Don't need a lot of rpm to make power, a properly sized turbo will come on at whatever rpm you size the turbo for.
I have a holley terminator x on one of my vehicles for almost 5 years now with no issues whatsoever, ive taken it on a few road trips and it did great.
I want to drive the truck and use it and make it somewhat modern.
500 ft/lbs? From a 1960's design? EFI isn't going to get you to that figure, and neither will a turbo. 250 HP, yeah, with enough dollars. But you can't rev this engine, it breaks. Destroked has experience with this.
I'm glad to hear of your 5-year experience with the Holley setup. It looks nice.
I'm not sure if 500 ft lbs is achievable with low boost, it was just a number, but to be honest with you and internal combustion engine is way older than 1960s technology. When was the Chrysler hemi designed? what about the 427 SOHC ford engine, I think these engines were also from the same era and made/make great power, granted these are WAY above my price range, but not much has changed, ford still uses similar architecture today as does Chevrolet and dodge/ram. Granted they do have better heads/cams/intake and so on but all can be upgraded on.
I made just shy of 320 wheel horsepower with 1970s technology with EFI and a turbo and that was with just 140 cubic inches.
True, it didn't make much power under 3500, heck first gear would only build 7 psi due to turbo sizing. I should have stated I'm not set on make a specific number just give it a little more usable power for towing, I've read lots of stories of these engine running out of steam trying to pull hills loaded. If i could maintain 60 MPH towing my 3-car hauler with 3 old vehicles on its id be more than happy, I'm only planning on running around 5 pounds of boost.
I did also read that the early (pre emission 1970s stuff) made around 370 ft lbs in the 391 flavor.
I have plans to make this a driver, heck vintage air just came out with an A/C kit for the f series from 61 to 66 which is the same cab as the n-series
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