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Hi, just about to fire up a ranger after an engine rebuild and the last thing I have to install is a cam synchronizer, didn't even know what it was until I looked it up, can anyone give me some more info on this, I did not mark anything. And from the little research I did it seems this part can be problematic on the 3.0 so I am thinking of just replacing it since I did a whole engine rebuild. So my questions are, is there any updated synchronizers you can buy out there that don't develop whatever problem it is that they have, and how do you install this accurately since nothing was marked upon removal.
I think I have a better idea of how to install it after some research but can someone tell me how you accurately degree the thing. I hear there is an allowable margin of error of a few degrees, but I am still concerned I might not get it within a few degrees if I don't know the exact angle. And where should the synchronizers housing be.
You need one of the synchronizer tools. And you'll need to set cylinder 1 at TDC. You can probably get the alignment tool at a local auto parts store but it will cost more. Maybe they'll have a loaner.
This guy's video covers the basics. But he is not starting from scratch. You'll be better off with the tool. Make sure you get the 3.0 tool, there are several types.
so in the video it seems to me like its really simple, but why does the repair manual say to offset it 75 degrees from the centerline of the engine. From what I can understand it wouldn't matter how you degree it as long as the rotor is positioned correctly in the housing.
Apparently that is so that the harness will plug in to the sensor correctly, with no physical interference, after installation. You can imagine getting the synchronizer installed and everything buttoned up only to find that you can't connect to the sensor.
And from the little research I did it seems this part can be problematic on the 3.0 so I am thinking of just replacing it since I did a whole engine rebuild..
Just to give you a little history on this part: It used to be that you usually got a little bit of squeaky warning before they failed. The Motorcraft replacement was the ONLY one that you could trust for a durable repair. The replacements, mostly from the land of almost right, used a cheap grease that wouldn't stand up to the heat. Then along came that nasty virus that shut down a lot of part suppliers, Motorcraft included. For the longest time, the Motorcraft part was listed as "Out of Stock", a description that was used quite frequently. Looking just now, I see RockAuto has the Motorcraft part in stock again, albeit at a hefty price compared to other brands. I haven't installed one of these for quite some time, so I can't tell you if the Motorcraft part is still domestic or off-shore. Motorcraft would NOT include the $.05 piece of plastic that is called the alignment tool, while the cheapies sometimes did throw it in. The Motorcraft part still says it is not included. If I was corporate, I'd probably a just throw the part in with it to stop customers from borrowing one at the local auto parts store, checking up on the competitor's price and then returning the Motorcraft part.
Good luck.
If it was mine I might just re-oil and keep it original. The problem with them is that the bushing loses its lubricant over the years. Check the shaft for play to be sure the bushing hasn't worn.