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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

86 5.0 throttle issue

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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 01:15 PM
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86 5.0 throttle issue

1986 5.0 fuel injection, when I'm under the hoo

d and rev engine by hand, this is clicking(see pic)....truck doesn't like to take throttle and sputters....new in tank pump, and when i do jump wire test to pull codes it only shows "11" which is test passed....almost seems like bad TPS but it won't pull code.....any idea on the "clicking"
thanks in advance
 
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 03:26 PM
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What color are the wires? That looks like a air pump solenoid or a EGR solenoid.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 06:43 PM
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So.....this wire, black with orange stripe, is getting hot while the truck is running, like smoking, can't touch it hot....plus, I don't have headlights when I pull the swith out....I have park lights, brake lights, etc....no headlights
 
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 07:42 PM
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Is it getting hot with out the head lights pulled out?
I thought the BL/O was the feed from the ALT output to the battery?
Yes it connects at the solenoid to charge the battery.

I would clean the battery connections.
Check the ground to the motor. motor to frame and motor to cab at firewall all must be clean and tight.
Also check that the regulator has a good ground where it is bolted to.
Check the battery water level and after all that check the ALT out put on the battery not the clamps on the battery.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 07:47 PM
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Battery is new, and output on the battery with it running is 13.60s on volt meter....yes, it gets hot without headlights pulled out....you mean the voltage regulator , is it on the alt?
thanks
 
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Leftysdad
Battery is new, and output on the battery with it running is 13.60s on volt meter....yes, it gets hot without headlights pulled out....you mean the voltage regulator , is it on the alt?
thanks
It's a 86 truck, so it probably was a 2G alternator which was the first to have a regulator on the alternator. You can google Ford 2G alternator and see if that is what you have. That alternator has a bad reputation for catching fire, so the aftermarket rebuilt ones may look a little different or someone may have retro-fitted a different type on it.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2024 | 08:18 PM
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The clicking solenoid is the EGR actuator vent. It breaks the vacuum to allow the EGR valve to close.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Leftysdad
Battery is new, and output on the battery with it running is 13.60s on volt meter....yes, it gets hot without headlights pulled out....you mean the voltage regulator , is it on the alt?
thanks
Originally Posted by Franklin2
It's a 86 truck, so it probably was a 2G alternator which was the first to have a regulator on the alternator. You can google Ford 2G alternator and see if that is what you have. That alternator has a bad reputation for catching fire, so the aftermarket rebuilt ones may look a little different or someone may have retro-fitted a different type on it.
I was not sure where the regulator was and if he was going over grounds I through it in there

13.6v is on the money so it is not over charging.
Was it hot after a lot of cranking like checking compression then started the motor?
The only time I can see that wire having a heavy load is like I said about cranking or there is a heavy load demand on the charging system.
I think I would remove the wires at the solenoid that wire is on and clean the connections and see what happens.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 05:13 AM
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The solenoid on the firewall is new also....when i got the truck it was bad.....the previous owner burned it up trying to start the truck he said.....he had the starter wire unhooked from the solenoid and would just touch it to the positive side to crank the the truck and then just lay it aside....he said the starter would keep "cranking" even after the truck started....so when I replaced it, hooked up the starter wire, it cranked normal with the key
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 07:08 AM
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One more bit of info....I went out this morning and put a 30amp inline fuse where that fusible link was, and soon as the truck cranks, it blows fuse immediately after truck starts and runs......
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Leftysdad
One more bit of info....I went out this morning and put a 30amp inline fuse where that fusible link was, and soon as the truck cranks, it blows fuse immediately after truck starts and runs......
That in-line fuse is way too small to be in place of a fusible link. If the fusible link is bad, you can replace it. Check local parts stores but you need to figure out if the fusible link is 14 gauge or 16 gauge wire. An Auto Zone in my vicinity had them in stock.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 07:39 AM
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Yea, I had it laying around and wanted to try it, il.going to autozone this morning
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 07:45 AM
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Both Dorman and Bussmann make them. My area AZ stores had the Bussmann brand. However, the counter guy had no idea what they were so be prepared to explain it to them and be patient.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 07:46 AM
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So they'll be behind the counter
 
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Old Jul 25, 2024 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Leftysdad
So they'll be behind the counter
No, of course not. LOL. They were out in the store. IIRC, AZ has an "electronics" aisle. They were with other electrical items like Scotch-Loks and ring terminals. There was a 5' tall display that rotated, they were on that fixture amongst other things. BP/FL-16 or BP/FL-14 are the Bussmann part numbers.
 
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