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The tube in the red looks like a "choke stove" set up and does it route to the intake manifold? The green box looks like a slip connector for a elec choke hook up.
The tube in the red looks like a "choke stove" set up and does it route to the intake manifold? The green box looks like a slip connector for a elec choke hook up.
My truck does not have electric hookup capability. Should I exchange this carb for an exclusive hot air choke?
Not related specifically to the choke setup, I'd suggest that you verify some things on the carb before you get much further or get a different one from O'Reilly's. This is based on my experience from last Summer in which I went through 8! carbs from O'Reilly's before giving up and having the original one rebuilt.
What we found is O'Reilly's states that the carbs are "Guaranteed to Fit" and not Guaranteed to Work. It's important to make sure the jets are the correct size, for example. I also found that parts were missing from some of the them (e.g. various springs). Basically the QA, QC of the carbs is very low and it ended up being a couple of months going back and forth and ordering and installing, which was a very valuable learning experience .
There are a couple of good rebuild places if you have the old carb or places from which you can buy an already rebuilt.
Knowing now what I now, I would have just bought the right Holley for our setup (360). In my desire to save $300 I learned a ton
The tube in the red looks like a "choke stove" set up and does it route to the intake manifold? The green box looks like a slip connector for a elec choke hook up.
did you mean this hot air tube goes to EXHAUST manifold?
cuz my carb choke has this fitting but no tube present and i see a tiny hole in my exhaust manifold about size of that tube , where it probly broke off?
guess my choke will never work properly w/o this? since i dont see any electric connection either
My truck does not have electric hookup capability. Should I exchange this carb for an exclusive hot air choke?
What year is your truck? Is it the 78 in your username?
Was that you where we were discussing electric chokes in another thread recently?
I learn something new almost every day around here, but in my experience all 78’s should’ve had an electric choke.
They started using them a lot more and more in trucks by 73, so by 78 electric was pretty much the norm.
Manual chokes had already gone by-by a few years prior, and non-electric assist automatic chokes had disappeared not much later.
if you look at the back of the Alternator, is there a white with black stripe wire coming from the Stor terminal and running up into the harness? If so, you might find the end tucked away somewhere behind the engine. That would’ve been the source of electricity for the choke.
Perhaps there were some engine options that got a different carburetor and choke set up even in ‘78. But if so, I’ve never come across one
Did you mean this hot air tube goes to EXHAUST manifold?
cuz my carb choke has this fitting but no tube present and i see a tiny hole in my exhaust manifold about size of that tube, where it probly broke off?
guess my choke will never work properly w/o this? since i dont see any electric connection either
Very common for those tubes to have rusted out and broken off over the years. One of the two on my 71 we’re already rusted off and broken five years into its life.
By 20 years, most cars and trucks had them rusted out pretty badly. By 50 years, I’m still shocked when I see one intact!
There were usually two tubes. One was wrapped in the heat resistant shielding like you see in the pictures, and ran from the exhaust manifold fitting up to the fitting on the choke housing of the carburetor.
The other was simply an exposed metal tube that ran from the exhaust manifold up to the back area of the carburetor and attached with a short section of rubber hose to a fitting under the bell.
That’s where clean air came in, went down to the manifold, was heated by the manifold, and sucked up into the choke housing.
If you don’t have the tube to the choke, you need to get a brass cap or something similar in aluminum to close off that threaded fitting. Otherwise it’s just a very small but constant vacuum leak.
I wouldn’t say the choke won’t function, but it is not as efficient. Any of them that just use the choke stove also had the heater hose laid next to them as mentioned in one of the previous posts.
I think all of those carburetors used a similar bracket to the one in the picture. But it was slightly different and more curved around where the housing is in order to hold the heater hose in place. Also included a wind blast shield in front of the choke.
Between the heater hose and the wind shield, it kept the choke warmed up longer and didn’t fight the cooling air coming over from the fan.
1ton you have to be careful on using the S lug on the ALT as it only puts out around 6 volts.
Some if not most choke caps need 12 volts to work right. Using 6 volts it will take for ever to open if hooked to a 12 volt cap.
Not knowing just how this truck was set up other than we see the hot air tube it may of had the heater hose routed next to the choke cap to help it heat up.
You can see the clip for the hose on this carb but why if it has electric hook up and looks to be a 12 v at that?
BTW the 80-86 trucks running the 300 six had a hot air asst. chokes.
It used the 6 volt from the ALT but also the hot air tubes from the EXH manifold to help open the choke.
They say the hot air helps / asst. open the choke faster when above 70*f
Dave ----
Very common for those tubes to have rusted out and broken off over the years. One of the two on my 71 we’re already rusted off and broken five years into its life.
By 20 years, most cars and trucks had them rusted out pretty badly. By 50 years, I’m still shocked when I see one intact!
There were usually two tubes. One was wrapped in the heat resistant shielding like you see in the pictures, and ran from the exhaust manifold fitting up to the fitting on the choke housing of the carburetor.
The other was simply an exposed metal tube that ran from the exhaust manifold up to the back area of the carburetor and attached with a short section of rubber hose to a fitting under the bell.
That’s where clean air came in, went down to the manifold, was heated by the manifold, and sucked up into the choke housing.
If you don’t have the tube to the choke, you need to get a brass cap or something similar in aluminum to close off that threaded fitting. Otherwise it’s just a very small but constant vacuum leak.
I wouldn’t say the choke won’t function, but it is not as efficient. Any of them that just use the choke stove also had the heater hose laid next to them as mentioned in one of the previous posts.
I think all of those carburetors used a similar bracket to the one in the picture. But it was slightly different and more curved around where the housing is in order to hold the heater hose in place. Also included a wind blast shield in front of the choke.
Between the heater hose and the wind shield, it kept the choke warmed up longer and didn’t fight the cooling air coming over from the fan.
YUP mine has that windblast shield and lil cup that puts the heater hose next to choke pot. Learn something new everyday ;-)
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