01 Won’t start without priming
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Agree to disagree on that point, based on annual bowl rebuilds with high priced dealership parts. I pass on the factory bowl. You'll have to pry the Bosch 040 fuel pump and Aeromotive bypass regulator from my cold dead fingers. But that's me, you do you.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,191
Likes: 1,696
Fuel bowl rebuild kit from diesel o rings is $25. I did it once about 10 years ago and did it again about a month or 2 ago when I had the bowl off doing something else just as preventative maintenance. Never had a leaks since the first time I resealed it and I don't really consider $25 every 10 years to be high priced. I'm not sure why you think it needs annual rebuilds. lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Fuel bowl rebuild kit from diesel o rings is $25. I did it once about 10 years ago and did it again about a month or 2 ago when I had the bowl off doing something else just as preventative maintenance. Never had a leaks since the first time I resealed it and I don't really consider $25 every 10 years to be high priced. I'm not sure why you think it needs annual rebuilds. lol
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,852
Likes: 2,329
From: WV
Originally Posted by udsuth78
The fuel line compression fitting seal kit was $35 or $45, bought that once. The fuel bowl drain valve was I want to say $75 but could have been more, bought 2 of those in as many years. These were local dealership prices, but when you need it you need it. The second drain valve was the tipping point for me. That was when I decided that over priced dumb s**t had to go.
Like you said, you do you, but the logic on this one is eluding me.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 3,191
Likes: 1,696
The fuel line compression fitting seal kit was $35 or $45, bought that once. The fuel bowl drain valve was I want to say $75 but could have been more, bought 2 of those in as many years. These were local dealership prices, but when you need it you need it. The second drain valve was the tipping point for me. That was when I decided that over priced dumb s**t had to go.
https://dieselorings.com/products/7-...eseal-kit-7-3l
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
I'm not arguing the fact the parts are available from Diesel O Rings cheaper than what I paid. Only stating what prompted me to find another way and that I feel that other way is better suited for my truck. Hence the "agree to disagree".
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Trailering
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I think I’m just going to drop the tank and check out the pump and its components. Hopefully it’s just dirty screens, a leak, or even just in need of a whole new pump. I really don’t want to think about hpop problems. Although now that I think about it, I did notice a ticking sound that to me just sounds like an exhaust leak coming from under the hood not long before the priming issue started. It’s hard to tell because my ears are shot, but would any hpop problems result in a noise like that?
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Trailering
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I pulled the stand pipe out and checked it out. The spring came out of the bottom easily but I had to take a screwdriver to pop the inner piece out of the outer piece of the actual stand. I figured that must be the problem and put just the outer piece back in the fuel bowl to make sure. So it’s been running without that check valve assembly and nothing changed. I thought briefly that was the problem but I guess not.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Hey guys. Had a quick question with my 01 with 250k. I’ve put 100k on it without a single hiccup but the other day after driving for 20 min and stopping at the post office I went out to fire it back up and she just cranked with no fire. Then I turned the key over to the on position for a couple seconds like I was needing the glow plugs and it started just like normal. I had to do that the rest of the day. When I got home I changed out the fuel filter (which had less than 1k miles on it) with a new one (oem) thinking maybe a fuel issue? That solved the problem for one day and now it’s back to needing to be turned on for a couple seconds first or it will just sit there and crank, no start. It’s not a big inconvenience but I imagine it’s a sign of something wearing out and needing replaced? Also it’s summer here in Oregon so I’m pretty sure it isn’t a fuel temp/glow plug issue. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,852
Likes: 2,329
From: WV
Originally Posted by Wbchap;
I think I’m just going to drop the tank and check out the pump and its components. Hopefully it’s just dirty screens, a leak, or even just in need of a whole new pump. I really don’t want to think about hpop problems. Although now that I think about it, I did notice a ticking sound that to me just sounds like an exhaust leak coming from under the hood not long before the priming issue started. It’s hard to tell because my ears are shot, but would any hpop problems result in a noise like that?
Did you ever pump fuel out the drain valve and see if it’s clear or foamy?
I’d check that then drop the tank. The H&H mods are good to have anyhow.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
Basically yes it's a little easier if you happen to have a couple feet of 5/16 or 3/8 hose handy. You can slide the factory tube off and put your hose on. Then just open the valve, point the hose in a clear bottle or safe direction, and cycle the key for a couple seconds. You should immediately have clean fuel with no bubbles or foam coming in the jug. If not then you got a leak.
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Trailering
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I checked the fuel coming out of the bowl and it wasn’t foamy at all. Looked pretty clean. But I went ahead and dropped the tank anyway and cleaned out the screens. The pickup one at the base of the pump was very clean and the two tubed screens inside the pump housing weren’t that bad. I did notice one of the breather lines coming off the end of the tank was corroded and broken so I replaced that. It seems (maybe it’s all in my head) that it has a little more pep but nothing changed as far as needing to prime the system or it will just crank without fire. So I’m starting to think this isn’t a fuel issue. I will add that this whole thing started once the weather started to warm up. Could it be an hpop issue with my oil (delo 15w-40 with about 1k on it) being too thin or something? Starting to run out of things to check on the fuel end. Thanks