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How difficult is it to change the timing belt on a '97 ranger 2.3liter with no a/c? Are special tools needed? What if the timing changes when new belt is installed, how do you adjust the timing on these new distributorless engines? Is there a way to mark the cam and crankshaft so it can be set correctly in case the cam moves?
It really looks so easy to change and it's right there in front of you with no a/c in the way. A few bolts and the timing belt cover is off. I have heard that when you remove the timing belt the cam and valves drop and have to be repositioned or else the engine will be out of time.
Can anyone offer any advice? Or should I let my mechanic change it even though he says I don't need one yet (142,000 miles).
Thanks.
I dont know about your engine in particular, but if the timing cover looks easily accesible, chances are itll be a cinch to replace. Normally, you take off the timing cover bolts, remove the cover, loosen the tensioner, and slide belt off. When you do this, take special care not to move the crankshaft gear or camshaft gear(s). If you do, youll have to realign them. In case one of them does end of repositioning itself, use crayon or chalk to mark where the gears are in relation to the engine casing BEFORE you loosen the tensioner and take off the belt.
At one time, I was very leary to replace the timing belt in my 4 banger and ended up paying a shop to do it at a cost over $200 to replace it. Later on I had to replace it again and discovered it was freagin' easier to replace than the regular a/c & alternator belts.
Id say go for it, as long as you have a backup car so you dont rush things.
One more thing, Ive heard it is a good idea to replace the tensioner hardware when you change a belt. Some of the parts (spring esp) could be worn and they are inexpensive enough to replace.
the '88 2.3 s/c i once had was easy to change the belt on. i changed mine at 110,000 mi & again at 145,000 when i had the motor overhaled. makes it easier to pull radiator &fan out of the way. good news is that it's a non-interferance engine. ( pistons wont hit valves if belt breaks while running.) at least mine was. dont know how much they changed the head when they went to the "2 plugs per cyl" design.
You can replace that timing belt in under two hours. You can get a timing belt kit, which has the belt, tensioner, and possibly a pulley or two. Just make sure you are TDC on #1 and all your timing marks are lined up. Make sure your new timing belt has tension on the non-tensioner side, this will prevent movement when you tension the belt. Start with the crank pulley first when putting the belt on and put the belt over the tensioner last.
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