ECT?
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6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2023
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Utah
ECT?
I have a 2000 7.3 automatic.
When pulling hard hills it heats up. The gauge seems right, because when i turn the heater on the gauge goes down and cools down. As it should using the heater core like a radiator. So looking at the gauge I semi trust it. Using the FORScan program i look at the live data. The coolent tempeture is completely off and not right. The gauge on the dash looks perfect, at operating temperature. But the live computer data shows it into the negitives (-246) or sometimes at really high numbers (275). When looking at the oil temp on the computer that looks right. (About 200). So something isnt right about how the gauge works and the ect temp going to the pcm.
when i put a jump between the 2 connecters on the ect harness the gauge goes up immediately. So i think the gauge and the wire going to it are working as they should.
Could this be causing my shut down problem?
sometimes the pedal will have no response. But the truck is still idling for about 20 seconds.
I have also been deaing with a over heating problem. Ive replaced every component in the cooling system. multiple fan clutches. and so many other parts It only overheats when Im pulling a big hill with my trailer. But it would never do this on these same hills before.
When pulling hard hills it heats up. The gauge seems right, because when i turn the heater on the gauge goes down and cools down. As it should using the heater core like a radiator. So looking at the gauge I semi trust it. Using the FORScan program i look at the live data. The coolent tempeture is completely off and not right. The gauge on the dash looks perfect, at operating temperature. But the live computer data shows it into the negitives (-246) or sometimes at really high numbers (275). When looking at the oil temp on the computer that looks right. (About 200). So something isnt right about how the gauge works and the ect temp going to the pcm.
when i put a jump between the 2 connecters on the ect harness the gauge goes up immediately. So i think the gauge and the wire going to it are working as they should.
Could this be causing my shut down problem?
sometimes the pedal will have no response. But the truck is still idling for about 20 seconds.
I have also been deaing with a over heating problem. Ive replaced every component in the cooling system. multiple fan clutches. and so many other parts It only overheats when Im pulling a big hill with my trailer. But it would never do this on these same hills before.
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,453
Likes: 2,936
From: Reed Point, MT
There are plenty of threads in this forum about inaccurate ECT values on the datastream.....because the PCM on your vehicle doesn't have an input for it.
The only time I see overheating/heating up issues on these is when the area between the radiator and charge air cooler ("intercooler") is plugged with debris like chaff, grass, cotton, grasshoppers, etc.
The only time I see overheating/heating up issues on these is when the area between the radiator and charge air cooler ("intercooler") is plugged with debris like chaff, grass, cotton, grasshoppers, etc.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 1,919
From: Ponca City, OK
You might want to check the turbo compressor wheel spins free and doesn't have any play or damage. Also look for any signs of boost leaks at the intercooler piping connections. Then check for exhaust leaks around the manifolds, up pipes, and collector. I've seen low boost cause warm up at highway speeds pulling a load. Of course the root cause then was the guy driving like a 90 year old lady on a Walmart scooter. Kinda hard to spool a turbo without a few rpm's.
Edit: Oh yeah check the air filter too. Engines gotta breathe just like everything else.
Edit: Oh yeah check the air filter too. Engines gotta breathe just like everything else.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,860
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
Originally Posted by Carstrucks07
I have also been deaing with a over heating problem. Ive replaced every component in the cooling system. multiple fan clutches. and so many other parts It only overheats when Im pulling a big hill with my trailer. But it would never do this on these same hills before.
Did the overheating start after some part was changed (even unrelated to cooling system), or did it begin randomly before anything was changed?
How about some photos of the setup. The guys here are pretty good at spotting things that are amiss.
I believe it was @Kwikkordead who had an issue with a slipping belt causing cooling trouble.
Has your tensioner been replaced? De-glazed the pump pulley?
Personally I’m with Cleatus on team “airflow restriction” for the radiator. Even if you changed the radiator there are parts in front of it that can be plugged and impede flow.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Subscribing. Nothing to add to what has already been said. Need to know the specifics of what has been replaced, etc. Whether there is debris blocking airflow over the radiator, etc. I have had to remove the radiator twice now and clear the debris that gets stuck in the fins. And yes, the pulley on my truck was smooth as glass and I really wish I had known about deglazing the pulley 15 years ago now. It would have saved me a lot of headaches.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,813
Likes: 1,335
From: Elk Grove, CA
As others mentioned, the scanner cannot show coolant temps. The PCM only monitors oil temp so you could read that. The coolant gauge on the dash is a simple old school sensor/wire/gauge dealio. Sounds like it's working fine.
This is not related to your lack of throttle. That sounds more like a dirty throttle position sensor. I'd spray some contact cleaner in the switch, let it dry, and see how it goes. Also clean the Idle Validation Switch since you're there.
I'll attach a PDF with some good info and pics.
This is not related to your lack of throttle. That sounds more like a dirty throttle position sensor. I'd spray some contact cleaner in the switch, let it dry, and see how it goes. Also clean the Idle Validation Switch since you're there.
I'll attach a PDF with some good info and pics.
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