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So I'm using the old trick of removing the ground and putting a test light between the ground and the battery to see if there is a current draw. I then remove each fuse one by one and see if the light goes off.
The light goes off with fuse 8 -- Courtesy Lights, Dome Lights, Cargo Light, Glove Box Light, Warning Buzzer, Radio
So that means that one of these is drawing power when the key is off. The only one I can think of that should draw any power would be the radio to keep the station settings, but it doesn't even do that (that doesn't mean it's not drawing power though).
How do I break it down to which one is the problem? Each of these should be shut off once the key is off, yet something using that fuse line is drawing power with the key off. I don't see any lights on, and I if it was a direct short, the fuse should blow.
Note: the current draw is enough for a classic (non LED) test light to go bright.
Update: the amp draw is 2.04 with #8 fuse in and 0.21 with it out. Don't know which fuse is using the 0.21
Update 2; the amp draw is 1.15 with the under hood light disconnected, so about .9 amps is being drawn thru fuse #8 and #16 --Horn Relay (with Cruise Control), Horn Relay Jumper (without Cruise Control), Cigarette Lighter, Speed Control, Ashtray Illumination. is drawing 0.20 amps
How do I break it down to which one is the problem?
There really is no easy way around it but if you have a good wiring diagram, you might find a connector that will disconnect several of them.
An amp clamp that can measure mA, is a blessing. That eliminates the need to break each circuit. If you have that tool, you don't need to use the test light.
I would make certain all those circuits do work. I know my dome light does not work with the drivers door [not worried about that] but I do know that with the door open, it may still be causing a draw although the light does not work.
What happens if you just wire that circuit to the ignition? Sure, the consumers would not work till you turn on the key, but it certainly would be a quick way to resolve your problem until you feel like fixing it right.
very accurate, can measure down into the very low MilliAmps.
the pix shows Key OFF draw on my truck before I found the problem.
I started at the Battery Terminals and just followed the Current.
this was 2 years ago now.
There really is no easy way around it but if you have a good wiring diagram, you might find a connector that will disconnect several of them.
An amp clamp that can measure mA, is a blessing. That eliminates the need to break each circuit. If you have that tool, you don't need to use the test light.
I would make certain all those circuits do work. I know my dome light does not work with the drivers door [not worried about that] but I do know that with the door open, it may still be causing a draw although the light does not work.
What happens if you just wire that circuit to the ignition? Sure, the consumers would not work till you turn on the key, but it certainly would be a quick way to resolve your problem until you feel like fixing it right.
I thought everything was already wired to the key. Except maybe the under hood light.
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