Body Filler
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento
Body Filler
Hey Guys,
I'm filling some dings on my '68' and I'm having some issues with getting the filler to cooperate. I'm working on the top rounded edge of the hood and I can't seem to stop getting the filler from getting to low. I've tried three times with the same results. I've used a hand held block sander, then I used a piece of wood as a block but still dipping too low. Is there a special technique or is it all in the practice?
I'm filling some dings on my '68' and I'm having some issues with getting the filler to cooperate. I'm working on the top rounded edge of the hood and I can't seem to stop getting the filler from getting to low. I've tried three times with the same results. I've used a hand held block sander, then I used a piece of wood as a block but still dipping too low. Is there a special technique or is it all in the practice?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Cross (X) sanding is the trick. It's certainly easier to demo than to explain but I'll try.
The secret is to vary the angle of the sanding pattern, depending on the curve of the metal.
The flatter the curve, the greater angle you use to cross sand. For example, on a piece of metal that has almost no curve, your cross sanding angle would approach 90 degrees (+).
As the curve increases, the angle decreases. For example, if you were sanding a basketball, you would cross sanding at 5 degrees (X).
I'm not sure if this makes any sense and like I said, it is easier to demo than explain.
Another thing that helps is a long sanding board. The long board bridges on the high metal and prevents you from digging into the low areas. Some people have made boards up to 5' long.
Cross (X) sanding is the trick. It's certainly easier to demo than to explain but I'll try.
The secret is to vary the angle of the sanding pattern, depending on the curve of the metal.
The flatter the curve, the greater angle you use to cross sand. For example, on a piece of metal that has almost no curve, your cross sanding angle would approach 90 degrees (+).
As the curve increases, the angle decreases. For example, if you were sanding a basketball, you would cross sanding at 5 degrees (X).
I'm not sure if this makes any sense and like I said, it is easier to demo than explain.
Another thing that helps is a long sanding board. The long board bridges on the high metal and prevents you from digging into the low areas. Some people have made boards up to 5' long.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: indiana
a lot of times people oversand. put your filler on and sand with 80 grit paper dont oversand even if you think its a little high leave it alone. your primer does wonderful things especially if
you use a high build primer once its primered youll tell what you need to do then you can wet sand where it needs to be.
you use a high build primer once its primered youll tell what you need to do then you can wet sand where it needs to be.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Uk is 100% correct.
Filler (aka Bondo) is designed to be no more than 1/8" thick. It is suppose to fill in low spots, not fill in cavities. Since you don't know what (thick Bondo, rust, holes, & etc.) lays beneath the old filler, you should remove it.
Uk is 100% correct.
Filler (aka Bondo) is designed to be no more than 1/8" thick. It is suppose to fill in low spots, not fill in cavities. Since you don't know what (thick Bondo, rust, holes, & etc.) lays beneath the old filler, you should remove it.
