So, 10+ years ago, the A/C compressor went out on my daily. Being a broke and dumb 20ish year old, I decided it'd be better to just slap a bypass pully on it and call it a day, or 10 years. Fastforward. It's still my daily. Now I'm 30ish, broke and dumb... But it's hot.

I'm looking to restore my Air conditioning in my daily. Problem is, I've left the A/C lines from the compressor open for all of those years. Found a nifty kit for a great price(Pic below). Never realized $300 could bring me comfort everyday and on long trips.
My questions are:
-Can I keep the old A/C lines? How do I clean them?
-If so, how how would I go about flushing the system?
-Will this kit be all that I need, aside from a vacuum pump and freon?(I have them, I've pumped freon before)

'95 F150 l6 EFI
Emissions deleted
M5od Trans
Clock spring died, so I re-routed the horn to a pull string with a french fry attached to it. Standard ****, guys.

 

Buy an evap also. Kit looks okay, UAC stuff is fine.

Lineset is near 30 year old rubber. Would you trust 30 year old rubber?

You need a RED orifice tube. 38oz 134A. 11oz oil, PAO better.

 

You've got a point. If it was a 30 year old condom, no sir I would not! Might as well spend a few more bucks for new lines since I have to disconnect them anyway. Easier to wrap them in insulation, too.
Evaporator is in the large box covered in insulation on the passenger side, right? Any recommendations on what to re-wrap it with?
Okay, what's the different between the orifice tubes, and where do they even go? I've seen people say blue and brown, not red.
And what is "PAO"?

 

Internal diameter for the FOT. Blue is for R12. Red 134A. PAO oil I prefer as it is not hydroscopic and will not turn acidic...PAG does both.

Yes, evap in there. Chances are it is plugged with crap in the fins (mine were) and will need a flush. Just easier to toss old and replace. I spent hours cleaning one once, never again.

Liquid inlet to evap holds the FOT. Arrow points in the direction of refrigerant flow.

 

Replacement parts are cheap compared to having to have A/C system re-charged 2 or more times because of faulty 30 y/o parts

 

Okay, so how does this shopping list look?
Am I missing anything besides coolant and ...PAO oil?
Do I need to flush it, or can I just vacuum it and start charging?

 

Looks good to me, I order PAO 68 oil online. Good HVAC local may have it. Runs about $20/quart.

 

Sweet ****. So I'll only need 1/3 quart for this specific application?

 

Ford revision shows 11oz. It was 7oz before as I recall.

 

I still have my hood sticker, so I'll refer to that. Really appreciate the help. Last question.
The Compressor probably ships with a little oil in it... Would you recommend I try and drain it and add all PAO 68 oil? Or just top it off with the PAO 68?

 

Someone posted the TSB on here for oil capacity, quick search will probably find it easily.

I stand it vertical. Let it drain and spin clutch. Fill and do it again. It is a pseudo flush to get out the PAG. If really crazy, do that inline valve to cut coolant flow to heater core. It helps!

 

Gets 100+ in Texas. I plan to completely wrap the AC line with pipe insulation, and spray foam on the side of the evaporator wall facing the exhaust and cover it with a foam insulator... Might even wrap the exhaust and get tint. 11 years of no A/C, everything is an upgrade!

 

do not use spray foam!

if you must use somehting, use a heat shield not touching the casing but between it and exhaust.

 

I am in Texas also.

Spend the cash for ceramic film, these things have near no insulation stock. OE suction line should be wrapped.

 

1995 calls for 7 ounces of oil, 1996 calls for 11. i do not know the difference that it would do that. but it also calls for PAG pn YN12b